Saturday, February 19, 2011

old tzintzuntzan


On our way to Pátzcuaro, we stopped at Tzintzuntzan on the banks of Lake Pátzcuaro for two purposes:  to see the ancient city of Tzintzuntzan and to look at the handicrafts of modern Tzintzuntzan.


When the Spanish arrived, Tzintzuntzan was the capital of the Tarascan state.  It had a population of 100,000 -- most of the people living in the area of modern Tzintzuntzan.  The political and religious functions were on the hill above the main settlement.


Not much of the political center remains today.  The Spanish took some of the stone to build their own buildings.  The elements handled the rest.  Like most sites, only a portion has been uncovered and restored.


The center sits atop a large stepped wall.  On top of that are five yacatas (platforms) that once housed a temple.  The current structures were built on older structures.  After all, the city grew for over three centuries.


What is unusual is the shape of the yacatas.  The rounded sides and the absence of mortar between the dressed stone is unique in Mexican architecture.  The only similar structures were built in Peru. 


Several pots have been found on site that have Inca markings -- and the P’urhépecha language is very similar to the language of South American Indians.


The generally-accepted anthropological theory is that the P’urhépecha and the Inca traded with one another.  But, there is a more eccentric theory -- that the P’urhépecha are actually Incas who migrated north.


There is a building on the grounds whose purpose is unknown. 


When it was restored, archaeologists found thousands of human bones in the structure.  The building probably served the same the same function as similar public buildings in the Aztec and Maya civilizations -- public or ritual display of the remains of enemies of the state.


I was impressed with the site.  But our visit here was the first time during this series of bus trips that I disliked being on a tour.  When Islagringo and I took our road trip through the Maya sites, we stayed as long at each as we both wanted.  On a bus tour, I could not do that.


I would like to return to Tzintzuntzan and spend more time examining the site.  Thinking through the implications of the Peru connection.


And then I would like to drive over to another P’urhépecha site -- Ihuatzio -- about five miles away.


But that will have to wait for another day.  As will our visit to modern Tzintzuntzan.

13 comments:

Don Cuevas said...

Although we've driven by the yácatas of Tzintzuntzan countless times, we've never stopped there. However, we have been to the Ihuatzio site twice.

After going to the Ihuatzio yácatas, I recommend making the short but scenic drive around the promontory of mountain that leads back to Tzintzuntzan.

And, of course, the famed olive trees and the churches and convent at Tzintzuntzan are very worth seeing.

Saludos,
Don Cuevas

Felipe Zapata said...

It was on my knees, as custom demands, between the two pyramids of Ihuatzio that I proposed formally in 2002 to my now-bride.

Kwallekno said...

I would be careful of the Peru connection, I'm sure there was some trade up the west coast but an invasion seems iffy. I've seen some round Mayan buildings in Peten, Ceibal has something that looks like your photo.

Steve Cotton said...

And that is why I called it eccentric. Next thing we know, the von Daniken fans will be claiming they arrived by UFOs.

Steve Cotton said...

Ever the romantic. Another reason for me to return to see Ihuatzio.

Steve Cotton said...

Tomorrow's post will reveal more about the modern town.

tancho said...

Did you get a chance to see the centuries old olive trees in the courtyard of the old church in town?
The olive trees are about 4 to 6 feet in diameter and are impressive to say the least.
You need to return at your leisure, not the bus drivers.....
As Sr Cuevas points out, The drive around the mountain leading to Ihuatzio is probably one of the most beautiful drives around, you can stop at several food stands and savor the view of several of the islands while devouring some tasty eats....

jennifer rose said...

In Vasco de Quirog's time, the Spanish had prohibited the cultivation of olive trees in this part of the world to maintain its monopoly.

Don Cuevas said...

I see that Marc knew about the onomatopoeic origin of the name Tzintzuntzan. Yes; I'm confident that it's the sound of hummingbirds. The city calls itself "Lugar de colibries". Even the garbage truck has that motto and a picture of hummingbirds painted on its stern.

Don Cuevas said...

So, how did the local residents/churchmen get away with it?

Saludos,
Don Cuevas

Steve Cotton said...

That makes sense. Mercantilism was strict in the Spanish colonies -- even more so than in the English colonies.

Steve Cotton said...

I did. But that is the next post.

tancho said...

The church always gets away with things.........