Monday, September 17, 2012

the road to perdition


My name is Steve.  And I'm a church architecture and art addict.

But you already know that.

Mexico has a treasure trove of churches.  Some that rival their European ancestors.  At least in form.

My experience, though, is that the most interesting finds often are hidden away in small churches.  And they usually are surprises.

Like the little parish church in San Maria de Guido.  It is the very essence of a church that serves the spiritual needs of the poor.

It is not quite as plain as a Quaker or early Methodist meeting hall, but it close.  The adornments are rather spartan.  Even though the dome adds a bit of splendor.



Most churches include paintings of the four gospel writers at the "corners" of the dome.  And those paintings are a good guide to gauge the rest of the art in that church -- with the exception of art that was destroyed during the country's wars or hauled off by the secular authorities for non-sectarian purposes.

Using that standard, an art connoisseur would not expect to find treasures based on the rather decayed nature of this cartoonish St. Mark.



But I did find a treasure in a side chapel.  Not an art treasure, but a theological treasure.

Take a good look at the artist's construction of this painting.  It is almost medieval in its hierarchical arrangement.  (If you click on it, you should see an enlarged version.)


There are three levels.  The trinity and Jesus' disciples are lined up on the top tier.  Tier two includes Mary, Joseph, the baby Jesus, the archangel Michael, and a smattering of saints.  Considering the inhabitants, the top two tiers are undoubtedly meant to represent Heaven.

Tier three is not heaven.  Note the nudity and flames.  Whether it is Hell or Purgatory, I am not certain.  The fact that the saints are dropping ropes to the tormented is probably a clue.



But what struck me as most interesting are the number of crowned and mitered heads in Hell.  A king.  A pope.  A cardinal.  A bishop.

The approach is not original.  Dante populated Inferno with popes and monks.  It would be interesting, though, to know which nobles the artist has committed to Hell.  I am willing to bet the poor who attend mass here may have their own Ko-Ko list.

And if they do have their own condemnation list, what does that say to the poor if the privileged end up in Hell?  Resignation or smugness?

The painting caused me to take a closer look at the Mary icon in the opposite chapel.  The left side of the Victorian painting is devoted to Mary offering salvation to a young man who is about to be sucked into the maw of Hell.



Church art is designed to teach moral lessons.  Oddly enough, most of the art in Santa Maria de Guido is of the Spooky Catholic Hell Dream variety.

If there were portrayals of Christian charity, reflecting God's love to the world, I missed them.  And that is too bad.  Because the lack of grace is what gives a bad name to what faith is all about.

And maybe that is why I find the best reflection of faith taking place outside of the walls of most church buildings.

For the last week I have been listening to the music from a Broadway musical that is a spoof on Mormonism -- The Book of Mormon.  Before long, I want to share some thoughts on it.

But not today.  Today is the day I drive to
Pátzcuaro for one of the last stages in this year's world tour.

23 comments:

John Calypso said...

Very good photos - thanks.

Pátzcuaro should be fun -- Several cool Bloggers hang there ;-)

Steve Cotton said...

 I plan to meet up with many of our fellow bloggers as I can.

Andean said...

There are differing conceptions of grace, even within one's own religious belief. Without getting specific, I see grace in the art pieces depicted. 
I agree, the best reflection of faith takes place outside of the walls...Enjoy Patzcuaro!

DonCuevas said...

We hope to see you here again, in the Pátzcuaro area.

Saludos, Don Cuevas

Shannon Casey said...

If you are going to Patzcuaro, you might like to stop in Tupataro (right outside of Cuanajo) and see the church there. It is really unique and quite beautiful in an understated way.

Joanne said...

The weirdest religious depictions I ever saw were in a Buddhist temple/shine/park in Thailand.  You could walk around the grounds and there were depictions of what happened to bad people.  It was called something like "Heaven and Hell" which was interesting because Buddhists generally don't believe in that.  There were all sorts of statues of people in vats of boiling oil and flames or with their bodies being torn apart by birds.....  We saw a local woman taking her young son through the grounds, no doubt to instil some fear into him and make him behave.

Steve Cotton said...

It may be the equivalent of the mother I saw in Salem.  Her little boy was misbehaving in the mall.  She pointed to the security guard and said: "If you don't shape up, I'll have that policeman shoot you with gun."  Disconcerting.

Steve Cotton said...

Your second sentence is absolutely correct, and I skipped over it far too blithely.  Being thankful for God's grace to us is the first step in sharing that same grace with others.  Thanks for the reminder.

Steve Cotton said...

I am now on the ground.  Enjoying the plaza grande.

Steve Cotton said...

Funny you should mention it.  I have stopped on my last two visits, and I am heading out there tomorrow.  Unfortunately, they do not allow photographs of the interior.  It truly is a treasure.

Cineguy said...

WOW! 

Steve Cotton said...

As you know, my former home town is filled with similar tales.

Andean said...

Relax, take care of your head cold, and, enjoy your friends in Patzcuaro. 
When you're up to it we'll be here to hear your adventures.

Cineguy said...

Oh, is that why you left?  So many great tales....

Joanna said...

Your post today has inspired mine... I have a great appreciation for your viewpoint

Mommy with Commuter Husband said...

"Spooky Catholic Hell Dream variety" - good description - there are certainly many arresting images in the churches of Mexico ...

Steve Cotton said...

Thanks, Joanna.  Especially, for your kind words.

Steve Cotton said...

That was the sound of an arrow cutting my aorta.

Steve Cotton said...

There may be people who feel gratitude for God's grace from such portrayals.  I would rather exercise my thankfulness amongst the thirsty.

Steve Cotton said...

Last night it turned into stomach flu.  I will spare you the details.

Shannon Casey said...

Todd was able to take some photos. He asked if it would be alright and was told that it is OK as long as you don't use a flash. 
It is one of three "painted churches" in Michoacán. There   is also one in Nurio and one in Pomacuaran. These are also interesting little towns and worth the drive.

Steve Cotton said...

My Mexican companion told me not to ask because it would have put the young woman in an awkward position.  It is a stunning church interior.

Andean said...

I feel blessed.