Saturday, March 03, 2012

night and day


Shanghai, like most big cities, has a day face and a night face.  But in Shanghai’s case, the two faces seem as if they belong to two different cities.

Even though it is China’s largest city by population (23 or so million people), it is not an ancient city.  It was a market town for most of its existence.

When the Chinese opened Shanghai as a sea port in 1684, the town began to thrive.  The British Empire seized the town during the opium wars, and grabbed a concession in 1842.  Soon to be followed by the French and the Americans.  And, of course, the Japanese, who took over the whole city in 1941 until the end of the Second World War.

During the Cultural Revolution, Shanghai was the center of leftist radicalism under the Gang of Four.  It is hard to believe that current Shanghai, a monument to capitalism, once was the poltical base for Madame Mao and her allies.

What is far more apparent is the British connection with Shanghai.  The Huangpu River runs north to south in Shanghai.  On the eastern bank is modern Shanghai.  On the western bank, in an area called the Bund, is the former British concession with its European-style collection of buildings.

But when the lights go on at night, Shanghai takes on the look of a potpourri of Las Vegas, Disneyland, and a Blade Runner set.  We took an hour-long boat trip to see the city at its best.


To ensure it looks its best, the government turns on all of the external lights from 7 to 10:30.  And a shiny face it is.

On the east bank, each building vies for attention.  But the Shanghai Financial Center (second tallest building in the world), the futuristic Oriental Pearl Tower (looking as if it was sired by the Space Needle and a minaret), and the LED screens that cover the full side of two riverside buildings.


And because Shanghai has suffered its share of political intrigue, the People's Liberation Army (PLA) decided to build its own snappily-titled Monument to the People's Heroes in Shanghai.  Its three concrete spires commemorating the defeat of feudalism, imperialism, and capitalism.  The last is ironic because the PLA is the largest business owner in China.


The monument has an alternative meaning not often used within earshot of foreigners.  Commemorating the defeat of the Japanese, British, and Americans.  Such matters are best left unsaid to not scare off those tourist dollars.

But Shanghai is not just imperialist and modern buildings.  Unlike Beijing, Shanghai has retained quite a few of its traditional neighborhoods.


   
And, of course, there are gardens.  Before dropping us off at a tacky market for a two-hour shopping spree, our guide took us to a traditional Chinese garden nestled in the heart of Shanghai.  I never recognize how stressful touring cities can be until I have an opportunity to be surrounded by the peaceful harmony of a garden.

That harmony, of course, was the result of the hard work of a staff of 30 gardeners.


This garden had the four traditional elements: water, buildings, plants, stone.  But the arrangenent was masterful enough that I could feel the day's tension draining out of me onto the mosaic walkway.



14 comments:

John Calypso said...

All those magnificent buildings and yet they still cannot serve up potable water at the tap - quite a contradiction - I suspect China is full of those.

Steve Cotton said...

 And the cities are huge.  There is a certain Potemkin village about much of the development, though.  As if it is based on a rather rocky foundation.  The drinking water is a good example.

Theresa Diaz de Gray said...

I want to go to China too! your photos are really inspiring. don't you feel like you are living on a deserted island now that you are back in Meleque?

Debiinmerida said...

I have friends here in Merida prepping for their trip to China.  I shared your blog with them and they are enjoying it tremendously as am I, como siempre!

Andean said...

Certainly looks like, night and day. Interesting mix of architecture in one city, non I've come across. All nice pictures! You captured the peacefulness of the garden well.

Karen McGivney said...

very enjoyable article.

Steve Cotton said...

 Thanks, Debi.  China is a great place to visit -- as long as people recognize its limitations.

Steve Cotton said...

Shanghai is very photogenic -- day and night.  

Steve Cotton said...

Thanks, Karen. This has been an enjoyable series for me. Now, I can start looking around Mexico again.

Steve Cotton said...

Yes. But I was feeling that way before I left.

Laurie Matherne said...

The last picture is fantastic. I feel more relaxed just looking at that photograph. 

Mary Lou Halbach said...

Thank you, Steve.  I am truly enjoying your trip, if only from my armchair.  We were to travel China this year, but the arrival of our grandson two years ago has detoured that plan, and we don't mind that a bit.  You are very good at travel reporting.  Could this be your next calling in life?  Again, many thanks!

Steve Cotton said...

 Being there, you would have felt the tension drain out of you.  Chinese gardens are a marvel.

Steve Cotton said...

 You are welcome.  A calling?  No.  But it is certainly a joy.