OK. Enough of the history for a bit.
Let's talk about something I like almost as much -- eating.
It did not take me long to adjust to Mexican eating hours. I usually have a light breakfast. And in the late evening I will have something light. A sandwich. Leftover enchilada. Or maybe a taco or two at the local stand.
But the big meal of the day is what my midwestern and southern friends call dinner -- and others call lunch. That is when I get to fold into a big plate of whatever. Usually around 2 or 3 in the afternoon.
For a number of reasons that are not very important, I violated that rule on Tuesday evening. I had not eaten much during the day, so I went looking for a good restaurant.
On my first day here, Felipe had recommended Restaurante d' la Calle Coss Galeria de Arte. It is well-known for its fixed price meals. But I was after something different.
The restaurant serves an Argentine-style beef dish -- churrasco con chimichurri.
I have been reluctant to order beef in Mexican restaurants. Most of the beef here is range-fed with little feeding lot fattening. As a result, it is very lean. And very tough.
At least, that has been my experience on the coast. I may have to change my mind after my dinner.
That is it at the top of this post. Well, what is left of it by the time I realized I should take a photograph. Just consider it as part of my Willem Claeszoon Heda period. If I had waited much longer, it would have been from my Clean Plate Club period.
The steak was cut thickener than most beef in Mexico. To its benefit. It was, without doubt, the tenderest piece of meat I have had here. Not quite Morton's standard, but close.
And the chimichurri sauce (made of parsley, garlic, and oil) was a perfect complement. Subtle enough to add flavor, but not overwhelming the beef's natural flavor. It was good enough on its own that I did not touch either of the two salsas offered.
The fact that it came with a real salad of leaf lettuce (instead of the usual wilted iceberg) helped make it a very special meal.
I should have stopped there. Enough is enough. But I gave in to the dessert demon.
In this case a rather unremarkable flan. But it was accompanied by one of Mexico's supreme gifts to the rest of the world -- hot chocolate with a slight twist of cinnamon.
During the month I have been here, it is not uncommon for me to be the sole guest in the dining room if I eat late. And it does not matter whether I dine at 6 or 9.
Most of the restaurants have been quite good. I hope that there main business is in the afternoon. If not, I am not certain how they stay in business.