Today is what we tourists call a travel day.
And a travel day it was.
Up at 3:30 AM to catch a chartered ETN bus (one of Mexico's premier services) in Melaque. A five hour drive to Guadalajara where we caught a one and a half hour flight to Culiacan. And then onto a tourist-style bus for a three hour drive to Los Mochis.
The Los Mochis stop was for lunch. At 4 PM. And we were then off for another hour or two bus ride to El Fuerte.
The adventurous traveler should enjoy journeys no matter how mundane. But I must have missed the merit badge for that skill. The day was merely something to be endured. As a Catholic friend on the trip said: “Endured as we must endure life as a Christian.”
I read something similar about the local Tarahumara Indians. Their religion teaches that good deeds are a moral end in themselves. To improve life on earth without regard to an afterlife. Funny. I thought that was also Christ's teaching.
But I am wandering. We are now in our 5-star hotel (Posada del Hidalgo) in El Fuerte. A few of us walked around the town this evening and rehashed a bit of Mexican history -- in this farming country that is now experiencing its ninth year of drought. With no Joseph on the horizon.
Tomorrow, we will board the train that will take us up Copper Canyon.
The railroad we will travel still bears some of the historical burden that often weighs down Mexican progress. Railroad men in The United States and Mexico planned an intricate web of rail lines that would carry goods between the Pacific and Gulf coasts.
The Copper Canyon rail line was part of that web. Construction began in the 1860s. But internal wars and other Mexican priorities slowed construction until it stopped in 1906 -- partly due to the opening of the Panama Canal. Construction eventually resumed in 1949 and the line was completed in 1961.
It had a short-lived career, like much of Mexican rail, until it was relegated to the task of hauling tourists trough one of the Mexico’s most spectacular sights.
A ride I am looking forward to -- tomorrow.
One of my former wives and I took the train through the Copper Canyon back in the early 1980s. Los Mochis to Chihuahua. It was just the regular train, not the tour train that does that route these days. Pretty spectacular ride. We got off the train at the canyon rim and spent the night in the hotel. No reservations. We just showed up. The hotel was almost vacant.
ReplyDeleteAt night it was very, very dark. Nice. Our hotel room was about five feet from the canyon rim, and the fence was questionable.
The same train passed by there daily, so we just got on the same train the following day and continued.
Two years ago, I travelled on the Chepe from Divisadero to El Fuerte. It was January, beautiful weather the first two days. The third day was very different. Snow, wind and cold. I'm from the prairie, so I'm use to the cold. I had my winter jacket, but didn't have the zip in lining, gloves or scarf. Could have used all my winter garb.
ReplyDeleteAre you going to Batopilas? I didn't have the opportunity to go to the bottom of the canyon, or to hike.
Another trip to Northern Mexico is calling me.
Two years ago, I rode the Chepe from Divisadero to El Fuerete. It was January. The first two days, the weather was warm, but the third day was a different story. Snow, wind and bitter cold
ReplyDeleteI'm from the prairie; therefore accustomed to the cold. But, I didn't have my scarf, gloves or the zip-in lining for my winter coat. On that third day, I could have used all my prairie winter garb.
Are you going to Batopilas? I didn't make it to the bottom of the canyon, nor did I hike, my favorite form of exercise. Another trip to Northen Mexico is high on my "to do" list.
Looking forward to hearing more about your adventures.
"I read something similar about the local Raramuri Indians. Their religion teaches that good deeds are a moral end in themselves. To improve life on earth without regard to an afterlife. Funny. I thought that was also Christ's teaching."
ReplyDeleteHave you read anything by NT Wright, or Tom Wright, as he writes under both names? Similar ideas by a great Anglican bishop.
I think you need to proofread this entry. "Los Michos" and "the 18560s" stand out. But otherwise an entertaining yarn, even if the source material wasn't.
ReplyDeleteSaludos,
Kim G
Boston, MA
Did that trip much like Felipe back in the 70's. Seems like another lifetime ago - Of course that is less than a blink of the eye in that canyons life - looking forward to some photos.
ReplyDeleteToo rushed with limited internet access.
ReplyDeleteWe will not be stopping at Batopilas. But we are in a great hotel tonight.
ReplyDeleteI am glad I made the trip. It may even be worth a routine trip to try out the ziplines.
ReplyDeleteI haven't. But we are fortunately starting to hear from other social justice Christians these days.
ReplyDeleteThe train on Sunday was almost packed. At some point, I might return to spend more time and do justice to this part of the world.
ReplyDelete