Saturday, June 16, 2012

international dining

I had not sat down to talk with him for almost three years.

There were reasons.  He was busy building a house in another village.  And I have been traipsing the globe.

But we had a lot in common. 

His was one of the first Mexico blogs I ran across when I was looking for a place to retire.  And, even though we bloggers are as diverse as any random group of people, we all share that odd desire to be prodigal with what many people think to be private.  Instead, we plop it all out there on line for all comers to pick up and examine.

We were also from the same part of The States -- before we moved south.

So, we decided to meet for dinner on Thursday.  He had not yet tried the only local restaurant that cooks a pizza I like: Chez Cedric.  And I was interested to see if it was still as good as my first visit (seine memories).  I had heard some comments on our local message board about food and service issues that were completely inconsistent with my experience.

As luck would have it, we arrived an hour early.  Because we were both hungry, we wandered over to the newish Japanese restaurant.  It was also closed.  But the owner saw us, pulled a table onto the street, and we had a pleasant meal.  Yakisoba chicken for me.

The best part of the evening, though, was the conversation.  Catching up on local doings.  The joys of the blogosphere.  Our plans for the future.  (In my case, always up for grabs.) 

We even had a bit of street theater from a healthy-looking young man who told us his tales of woe -- including lifting his shirt to be certain we saw his surgery scars.  I am not certain he meant us to see the bullet wound in his side.

But I could not get the thought of pizza out of my mind.  So, last night I showed up during open hours at Chez Cedric.

Everything I wrote last November is still true.

It is by far the best-appointed restaurant in the area.  Real table cloths.  Cloth napkins.  Carafes of spiced oil and balsamic on each table with an accompanying flower arrangement.

But, just as no one leaves a Broadway show whistling the scenery, restaurant atmosphere will add only so much if the food is not good.

Most people on the local message board like everything about Chez Cedric.  But a couple participants found the pizza "average" and the service "slow."

I think I have eaten in all of the local restaurants that serve pizza.  And I would agree that most of the pizza ranges from passable to ghastly.  By comparison, they make Domino's look good.  Or, at least, edible.
 
Chez Cedric's pizza is consistently excellent.  At least, for me.

The crust is thin and always cooked to almost a cracker crispness.  With just enough wood-fired smokiness to ensure the crust did not begin its life in an Oxxo freezer.

I like pepperoni.  That is problematic in Mexico.  Most pepperoni produced here tastes as if it is the first cousin to bologna.  The pepperoni at Chez Cedric is both firm and spicy.  Not quite Boar's Head.  But the best I have had in Mexico.

For me, the selling point is the cheese.  Most pizzas in Mexico use cheeses that are not well-suited for pizza.  Primarily due to the chemical after-taste.  The cheese Chez Cedric uses is a fine quality cheddar.  Thick enough to get a cheese taste without overpowering the rest of the ingredients.

Creating an artisan pizza is difficult.  And subtle is not what some pizza eaters are after.  I am.  And it is the best I have found.

What baffles me are the complaints about service.  But I hear the same tune often from northern tourists.  I suspect part of it perception.

When I go out to eat in Mexico, I know it is going to be my main event either for the afternoon or evening.  I will meet with acquaintances and we will spend two hours or so enjoying ourselves.

I do not expect to have a menu shoved in front of me the moment I walk in.  I want to get settled and start conversation before I need to think about looking at food choices.

One thing I have always appreciated about Mexican waiters is they do not hover around giving the impression I need to rush my meal.  And they do not treat me like a child by constantly asking how I like everything.

When I order my meal, I always order enough beverage to get me through the evening.  A Coke Zero when the menu arrives, and a second Coke Zero when my pizza arrives.

By that standard, I have always had good service at Chez Cedric.  In the winter.  And in the summer.

And, even though I should be cutting back on the pizza, I will be showing up at Chez Cedric regularly this summer. 

The restaurant is open from 7 to 10.  Closed on Tuesday and Wednesday.

29 comments:

  1. I also had a very good experience at Chez Cedric. I had a Goat cheese salad, and a Margherita pizza with an addition of onions -- excellent crust. We were neither rushed or forgotten through the meal. And the restaurant has an elegant flare, which sometimes strikes my fancy. I would like to try their Hawaiian pizza next time.

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  2. eaten pizza in many places in the world   but my favourite ingredient is seldom found in pizza restaurants in Mexico,  anchovies, so now I bring my own jar and some dried oregano too and if the cheese and crust is good I am a happy girl!

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  3.  Not familiar with that restaurant - will have to try it next winter.  Speaking of winter, not quite, but quite cool here.  Had to use a blanket for my afternoon siesta!  Oh JOY

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  4. I am using a large fan for mine.

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  5.  A happy girl.  And a smart one.

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  6. Ham on the Hawaiian instead of Canadian bacon.  But it was fine.

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  7. Good conversation and food at the Japanese place .... but that pizza sounds much more appealing right now.   Gonna have to try it in the next week

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  8.  It was well worth the stop.

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  9. As long as it has pineapple, the meat I could even do without. And from experience they have always been accomodating.

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  10. What a coincidence! I am baking a sort of Provençal pizza— a pissaladiere, right now. This is cheese less, but has caramelized onions in abundance, some previously roasted plum tomatoes, cured black olives, and anchovies. We love anchovies. I used the entire small can.

    I agree with you about non-intrusive waiters in Mexico. The one time exception was the totally irritating güey at Dila's, in SMA. He kept coming to the table about every 5 minutes to ask us, "¿Todo bien? Everything all right here?". 

    When you come here again, I can bake us a couple of pizzas. Be forewarned: I don't usually do pepperoni.

    Saludos,
     Don Cuevas

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  11. Canadian bacon is smoked pork loin. Chuletas ahumadas, the closest equivalent.

    (My pissaladiere is calling. Bye.)

    Saludos,
     Don Cuevas

    PS: I'll send you a photo tomorrow.

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  12. wow, that sounds like my kinda pizza -- sin carne :)

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  13. Even though I eat it, I generally prefer my fruit in salads rather than on my pizza.

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  14. I tried your suggestion of using chuletas ahumadas in my beans as a substitute for ham.  The consistency was not quite right.  But the taste was great.

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  15. When I head up your way, a sampling of pizza a la Provençal would be far better than pepperoni pizza.

    The only place I have encountered the hovering waiters are areas where tourists seem to miss their mothers.

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  16. I haven't had a Hawaiian in years, but it was a good memory.
    I like pears and apples in my salads.

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  17. There is a great pizza place in LaManz if you have time to mosey over. It is called Jesus, Jose, and Maria and is on the main drag across from Figaro's. He is expanding his menu but the pizaa remains excellect! 

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  18. The Provençal pizza was good, but the caramelized onions made it sweeter than I like. We have other pizze in our repertoire.

    Saludos,
     Don Cuevas

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  19.  I will be prepared to be the designated taster of the pizza Whitman's sampler.

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  20. Fruit salad or veggie salad .... can't be mixed in my book

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  21. Lucky guy, one of my ghastly surprises is how and varied pizzas are in Mexico. The big percentage of Mexicans think a thick crust like they sell at the supermercado, topped with spagetti sauce with some cheese makes an supurb pizza, or the chef de casa worked as a dish washer up north which now makes him an pizza expert, puts out  horrible pizzas. Keep supporting the local joint especially if they have a wood burning oven and understand the neuances of thin crust non overloaded pizzas.
    Plain and simple is usually the best, thin crust, fresh basil, decent cheese and great anchovies is all I need , with a nice vino tinto ...heaven on earth!

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  22.  We have plenty of the "we want to be like Domino's" options.

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  23. Pissaladíere picture here.
    http://tinyurl.com/7rk96y8

    Saludos,
     Buen provecho
     DC

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  24.  I could use some of that for breakfast.

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  25. When you visit San Miguel we must go to Pizza Pig. They also have good pepperoni and they make their own Italian sausage. Delicious.

    I also agree with you that the slow service in Mexico is not a bad thing. I think it makes dining a lot more pleasant. With most of our favorite restaurants we are never left waiting for anything, except possibly the check, but know that we will not be out inside an hour and a half.

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  26. I often wonder why people are in such a rush at dinner.  Are they afraid they are going to miss the overture for the wold tour of Aida?

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  27. I was thinking of driving over today.  Now, I will have a mission.  Probably during the coming week.  I still have some ginger chicken to cook up here at the house.

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  28.  Can I come too?

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  29.  Haven't been there.  Can I go too?

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