Sunday, July 08, 2012

amity, mexico

If Peter Benchley needed a model for his fictional summer colony of Amity, he could have easily used Melaque.

The difference is that Melaque is a tourist town for all seasons.  But the starting pistol was just fired for the summer season.

Most Mexican schools held their graduations this week.  That means that school is out and Mexican families are heading for the beach.

The first wave hit earlier this week.  Comfortable cars filled with solidly middle class Mexican families forgoing the pleasures of Puerto Vallarta have been showing up all week.  And the busloads of tourists from Guadalajara and Autlan will soon follow.

They will not be the masses of semana santa (Holy Week -- Easter).  But, for the next two months of summer vacation, Melaque will be selling a nice time at the beach in exchange for pockets full of pesos. 

They may not have the history of the highlands, but my Mexican neighbors are extraordinary entrepreneurs.  Anyone who can sell Chinese knockoffs as genuine Indian crafts could probably sell Manhattan back to the Dutch for a trunk full of beaded anklets.

And this looks like it will be a good year.

The tourists are creating massive traffic jams in front of the bank.  The vendors have their wares spread on the sidewalk.  The restaurants are filled with Mexican families.  And the hotel reception desks have long lines.

But you can always tell when the town is expecting a lot of tourists.  The traffic wardens show up.  Only two today.  But they were keeping traffic rolling along while watching for any good opportunity to meet a potential donor to the police retirement fund.

Last March I passed along an anecdote in breaking spring.

I was standing in the long ATM line behind a fellow who I have known for three years.  He comes south every year for about six months.

He looked at the line of aging white faces and said: “I don’t know how this place survives after all of the tourists leave in spring.”

I told him, the place survives because there are plenty of Mexican tourists who pick up part of the slack when the northern contingent leaves.

He didn't believe me.  Partly because he has never seen just how busy Melaque can be in the summer -- when the heat-phobic head north.

Well, the summer crowd is here now.  And, in many ways, the northern winter invasion pales in comparison to our summer visitors.

Now, all we need is a great white to stir up a little interest.


14 comments:

  1. Puerto has mostly Mexican tourists generally (when it has tourists); and of course surfers who are probably less thrilled with that photoshop shark picture than most ;-)

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  2. Apparently, the doctored photograph has been attributed to being one of the "dangers" of Melaque for years. 

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  3. That's still a cool picture. 

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  4. And, if real, would put Melaque in the news.  I saw in this morning's Oregonian about a great white attack against a kayak off the California coast.

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  5. Great picture, tourists are their own worst enemies sometimes, especially when the parties go out of hand.....

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  6. Profundis IgnoramusJuly 8, 2012 at 6:18 PM

     I believe I heard something about a 70' Japanese shark attacking a floating dock which broke loose during the Japanese tornado/earthquake, causing radioactive fallout.  This may explain the man's bald head in your picture.

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  7. The nice thing about Melaque is that it is a family beach town.  Most of the parties stay well within hand.

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  8. This is what comes from reading the newspaper while trying to digest Heidegger.

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  9. Rght on Steve. Many snowbirds (or simply the "heat averse") have headed north again. I'm in Vallarta and it appears the city is ready for the Mexican tourists of Junio and Julio. Until I lived here full-time I wasn't aware the influx of Mexicans could be so large. The car population seems to have actually increased the past week or so—since most of the nationals arrive by 4 wheels.

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  10. Vallarta seems to get more of the middle class trade than does Melaque.  There are lots of cars right now.  But the buses will bring the throngs from the highlands.  Probably starting next weekend.

    I will get to see how busy Vallarta is on Tuesday.  I am dropping someone at the airport.  I may spend the night before I drive back.

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  11. Sharks, there are plenty of--the movie was scary enough, and filmed too close to home. 
    Melaque was a lot of fun on the beach during the April tourist season. There was a bikini contest which drew a very large crowd of young and older folks, for many, many hours. The restaurants seemed quite busy and organized, so was the crowd. Thought, Jones beach all over again, blankets touching, music going...

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  12. What I enjoy are the families.  My west coast beach memories are some of the fondest I have with my little family.

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  13. I also grew up going to the beach, but on the east coast, with my large family, and then continued it with my children, hence, my love for the ocean. From early morning through sundown was the best. Always a well prepared cooler with good food to pick on, what else did we need. 

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  14. Boy, it's a good thing alcohol wasn't served at the wedding I filmed because this crowd was wild enough without it! 

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