Saturday, April 13, 2019

living high in singapore


Singapore is a magical place.

At least, that is what its government would have you believe.

This independent city-state at the end of the Malay peninsula has a reputation for being a very orderly and tidy place. Chewing gum is illegal. Cigarettes are treated as a social pariah. Vandals are caned. Drugs lead to execution. It is the sort of place that gives libertarians the willies.

As is true with anyplace on the planet (and on other planets, as far as I know), there are historical reasons for Singapore's less-than-enthusiastic approach to freedom. Like Hong Kong, Singapore makes its bread from trade and financial services, and there is very little regulation in those areas. But, the government has decided that political and social freedoms need to be closely controlled for a population of 5 million squeezed onto an island about four times the size of Washington, DC.

The result is a stunning city. A very rich city. For living cost, Singapore is currently the most expensive city in the world.

Our hotel is an example. Because we were going to leave our ship in Singapore, Nancy decided it would be nice to splurge by staying two days at one of Singapore's premier hotel's -- the Marina Bay Sands. And it is luxurious.


I booked myself into a suite. For modern travelers, the word "suite" has been devalued to meaning your room will probably have a couch and a chair.

The Marina Bay Sands uses the term as it was once (and still is) used at Brown's. My room contains a full living room-dining room combination, a bathroom the size of my full cabin on the ship, a dressing room, and a bedroom-sitting room with a view over the city. All in a very subtle and classy design.

Luxury does not come cheap. Nor does the food. When we arrived, we looked for a snack near the hotel's trademark infinity pool on its 57th floor. 


I have a general rule that it costs about a dollar a floor when eating at high-rise view restaurants. And that was just about right. Drinks for the three of them and two flatbread appetizers for the four of us came to just under $200. A small plate of pasta at a ground-level Italian restaurant cost me $47.

This is not a bargain town. That is evident from the extremely-high-end stores that make up the shopping center surrounding the hotel.

But some pleasures are there merely for the viewing. Last night we walked through the gardens bordering the hotel. Like most features created for the awe of tourists, the garden does have a certain Disney feel. And that is not entirely bad.


The gardens are centered around two domes that house plants and flowers. But the park itself is anchored by The Supertree Grove -- a series of structures built to evoke the wonder of giant trees and to present a nightly sound and light show that draws in flocks of tourists. Including us.


On the other side of the hotel is another light show on a man-made lake. If you have seen Disney's World of Color show, you know the concept.

Today we are heading out to see the portions of Singapore I missed when I was last here in October 2001. I suspect it will be just as magical.

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