Wednesday, February 11, 2015

mapping the past

I am a man of my promises.

Several of you asked me for a map of my journeys in Mexico with Dan and Patty.  After far too much experimentation and trying out software applications that simply did not live up to their billing, I settled on using Google Maps.

I originally rejected it because, it could only deal with 10 destinations on each map -- and we have well over 30 stops during our great loop adventure.  But all the alternatives were worse.  So, here are the maps of our journey.  Where each one leaves off, the next will continue.

Enjoy.






Tuesday, February 10, 2015

sheep, wolves, and sheepdogs


The year was 1968.  Movie reviewers were at war with one another.  Well, if a war can exist where 95% of the forces are arrayed on one side.

The controversial movie of the day was John Wayne's Green Berets.  Wayne was concerned that most of the media were not presenting a positive view of American goals in the Vietnam War.  Green Berets was produced to balance the scales.

As far as I could tell, none of the reviewers saw the film with a mind open enough to discard their own views on the war.  Reviewers critical of the war were critical of the film.  Reviewers supportive of the war spent most of their reviews discussing the difficulties Wayne faced in getting the film to the screen.

I was writing a film column at the time for one libertarian student publication or other.  I don't even remember the name.  However, I do recall that I was very sympathetic to the aims of the film.  What shocked me was just how bad the movie was.

That memory came welling up as I sat with my brother and sister-in-law watching American Sniper last night.  Even though most critics have lauded Clint Eastwood's nuanced treatment of an American military hero facing evil against the background of an initially popular Iraqi war that devolved into a morass, they have stumbled over the notion that it was executed by a president most of them did not support.  As a result, their reviews take on a rather churlish tone.

Eastwood has become the almost perfect director for the challenges that men face during war -- and when they then bring those challenges home with them.  Not to mention how society is often unprepared to deal with the challenges American military heroes face in a society "at peace."  (There are those who argue that war simply sensitizes military men to the struggles of daily society the rest of us have learned to ignore.)

That is the story of American Sniper.  Bradley Cooper nails his character -- Chris Kyle, the real life hero on which the movie is based.  The fact that most of us know how his story turns out only slightly takes away from the story's trajectory.

His obsession with duty personified in the person of an expert Iraqi sniper.  His steady decline into his hero archetype that pulls him further and further away from his wife (played by the master of subtlety: Sienna Miller).  All played against the subtext of an America that has others things to worry about than the heroes protecting its national interests.

To its credit, the movie does not offer easy answers.  Nor does it try to.  In that sense, it is a conservative anti-war movie.

And I am not certain how I feel about it.  I am glad I saw it because it has given me a lot of questions to ponder.  What I do know is that unlike what some critics say, Chris Kyle was an American hero.  He did a job on our behalf, and he did it well.

Here is my suggestion.  When you see the movie, leave your political notions outside.  Then watch it for its moral complexity -- and its technical expertise.  I doubt I have sat in any film where the closing credits completely caught the attention of the audience.

That may say it all.

Monday, February 09, 2015

masking the blog

I feel like Zorro.

Two laptops ago, I purchased a virtual private network (VPN) for my computer.  VPNs are all the rage amongst certain sets on the internet hghway.

For libertarians and clinical paranoids, a VPN is the first step in trying to mask one's identity in the Pyrrhic pursuit of electronic privacy.  For twenty-somethings, it is away to digitally steal copyrighted material without leaving fingerprints on the wheel of the getaway car.  It is no coincidence that "pirate" lurks within the second word in its title.


Well, it is about time for me to sign up for another tour of duty on the pirate ship.  And like everyone else who uses these services, I have my own justfication for being a law breaker.  In my case, I am heading off to Red China for four days. 

Three years ago, I visited Red China.  Even though I had heard that the Chinese authorities prohibited access to blogs within its boundaries, I was surprised to discover I could not even look at Mexpatriate -- even in the 5-star business hotels where we were housed.

I am returning to Red China at the end of April.  (Or, I hope I am.  Writing stuff like this probably does not enhance my odds of the Chinese approving my entry visa.  We shall see.)

With my new VPN, I thought I might be able to post a few essays for the four days I will be in Shanghai -- a city I really enjoyed on my last trip.  At least, I thought that until I read Plugging the Holes in this week's Economist.

Apparently, the Chinese authorities have sniffed out the VPN pirates, and are no longer tolerating the exchange of information on VPN-accessed blogs.  I may use "pirate" facetiously.  The Chinese government does not. 

The authorities have taken the position that offering unregistered VPN services in China is illegal.  Even if the VPN company is not stationed in China, and is offering services legally in its home country.

I am not a fan of censorship.  But, while I am in China, I intend to avoid using VPN services.  I will wait until I leave China before writing any essays.  Just as I did three years ago.

The article in The Economist did remind me on one positive consequence of the Chinese policy.  Facebook is not available there. 

A broken clock can be correct two times a day.

Sunday, February 08, 2015

just hanging out


If all has gone well, I should be spending the night in an airport hotel near SEATAC airport.

When I made my flight and hotel reservations, I forgot I would be flying through on the weekend after the Super Bowl.  As matters turned out, I suspect there is not going to be a lot of revelry in the streets.  I should rest well for my flight to Bend.

Rather than write a full essay, I decided to simply share a favorite photograph I caught this past week in Barra de Navidad.  I am not certain what to think of the piece.

The child piñata has an eerie feel to it.  But added to the graffiti background, the effect is touching -- in a John Carpenter sort of way.  Or maybe Robert Rodriguez.  But there would need to be more red.  Lots more red.

While I am enjoying the sleep of the just, I will let the rest of you talk amongst yourselves.

There has to be a story here somewhere.  Artists are not mute.
 

 

Saturday, February 07, 2015

signs of our time


During our loop through Mexico last month, I started shooting signs.  Some funny.  Some ironic.  Some confusing.

I had this great idea of compiling them into one essay -- until I noticed I must have deleted several of the best while transferring them from my camera.

But a good idea is a good idea.  Even those that suffer in the execution.

So, here is a somewhat eccentric distillation of my trip with Dan and Patty through the country in which I have chosen to live.


As you know, I am a sucker for toilet humor -- humor involving toilets, that is.  Or urinals.  Such as the shot at the top of this essay.

This is what I found when I walked into a Pemex rest room on our way to Oaxaca.  Anyone who has traveled our roads knows that rest rooms are always a crap shoot.  You never know what you are going to get.

For whatever reason, the urinals at this particular stop had gone missing.  The pails were not replacements.  At least, I didn't use them for that purpose.  They appeared to be there only to catch water draining from the plumbing to nowhere.

And this sign baffled me.  It is usually posted over a toilet -- letting the user know that toilet paper is not to be deposited in the bowl, but in a nearby waste paper basket.



But there is not a lot of toilet paper involved in using a urinal.  On the other hand, I have seen some of the most unusual items discarded in them.

I suspect the stall may actually have once hosted a toilet -- or a very literal sign poster was simply following what he thought he had been told.

Not surprisingly the theme in Oaxaca was anarchy.  It appears that the teachers who love going on strike each year (or their untaught students) have a penchant either for the reddest of leftist views -- or the more untamed anarchy version.




Anarchists (and socialists for that matter) are proud of the old maxim: "Property is theft."  I guess that is why they have no qualms about defacing other people's property.  Vandalism?  Theft?  It's all the same in the fevered swamps.

The first version was on a university building.  This one was on a shuttered piece of private property.



I had to look up Flores Magón -- it appears the sprayer may have had his own spelling problems.  Flores Magón was an anarchist credited with being one of the little candles that started the Mexican Revolution flame.  He died in Leavenworth Prison (yup, in the United States) for fomenting anti-war sentiments during the First World War.  That old Progressive Woodrow Wilson knew how to put an end to anyone who tried to steal his left wing.

Speaking of graffiti, this little number caught me off guard in Xalapa.  I assume the author was importing a bit of ghetto patois to the mountains of Mexico.



Or this neon job in Colima.


"Grafiti and piercing?"  It took me a moment to remember that "grafiti" in these parts is not just brainless slogans sprayed on a wall.  But "piercing?"  Is that really a Spanish word?

One of the most realistic signs I spotted on the trip was at the entrance to the Mitla archaeological site.



"Recommendations."  How polite is that?  No scolding.  No finger wagging.  Just one adult talking to other adults.

I wish I could have caught the shot I wanted.  There was an Italian young woman standing in front of the sign reading it -- while smoking a non-recommended cigarette.

You may have seen this one already.  It was in a market in
Juchitán de Zaragoza.  Like the cigarette-smoking Italian, I have a certain anarchic streak when it comes to "no photography" signs.  I like shooting them.


If I had had my way, I would have been shooting while wearing a forbidden ball cap with my forbidden sunglasses while smoking a forbidden cigarette.  OK.  Forget the cigarette.  But what is with ball caps and sunglasses?

And while we are on the topic of smoking.  I guess it is only a matter of time before the forces of control caught up with the historic
raison d'être of the very existence of some establishments.


When I saw this brilliant plaque in Puebla, I knew I had to have it.


What better antidote to the fatuous plaques that populate many a wall.  (Or maybe that are simply re-working Proudhon's commentary on property.) 

But I am glad I quashed the purchasing urge.  It turns out the phrase is not that original.  It was in every souvenir shop at each of our subsequent stops.  Curmudgeons r Us must have made a killing on stocking the shops.

And there you have it -- Mexpatriate's particular take on what Mexico looks like if you dig a little deeper.

 

Friday, February 06, 2015

talking the talk

The deed is done.

Yesterday I presented my lecture as part of our church’s Cultural Awareness series.  My topic was: “Who is a Mexican: The Mestizo Myth.”

How did it go?  The actor in me says: “You could have done better.”  The writer in me says: “There wasn’t enough time.”  The appellate lawyer in me says exactly the same thing he says after each Supreme Court argument: “You nailed it.”

I will leave it to others to write the review.  But I thoroughly enjoyed sharing my research with an appreciative audience.

I promised Jennifer Rose I would at least publish my notes.  It appears I can do a bit better.  I have retained my notes with commentary.  It was rather easy to expand it into something that approximated my presentation.

It is long – too long for one of my usual essays.  It was a one-hour presentation.  Feel duly warned.

Here we go.
 

Who is a Mexican?:
The Mestizo Myth

It is April 1519. Hernán Cortés de Monroy y Pizarro, the son of a respectable, but impoverished, Spanish family, stands on the deck of his flag ship, looking at the coast of Mexico -- the land he is about to invade. What is he thinking?

How am I supposed to know? I’m an historian; not a psychic. But I am positive one idea that did not enter his Castillian head was the notion that he and his soldiers were about to establish a new race -- an idea that would take 400 years to grow. But grow it did.

If you return to church services here on Sunday morning at 10 (and I hope you do), Nancy will be standing behind her electric piano over there -- and she just may ask you to turn to number 132 in the hymnals (“the hard-bound books,” as she would have it) to sing that old hymn of the church “Power in the Blood.”

Coincidentally, that is today’s topic. Not the theological power of the blood. But the secular power. The blood of Mexico.

Or to put it another way: “Who is a Mexican?” It sounds like a simple question. But it is a question that has been floating around since Cortes waded onto the beaches of the future Veracruz. And the answer has changed over the centuries.

This afternoon, I would like to walk you through the various answers over the last 500 years. And we can talk a little bit about where the definition is now -- and where it may be heading. Because it will change.  I am certain of that.

I wish I had a film crew with me this last week. Knowing I would be standing up here in front of you, I decided to ask random people that question – Who is a Mexican?



The most common answer? “Anyone born in Mexico.” But that leaves out a lot of people – and it may include people who other Mexicans do not consider to be Mexican – and some who do not consider themselves Mexican.

Let me tell you three stories to illustrate just how tricky that question is. At least, psychologically.

Story #1. Last November, Barra de Navidad celebrated the 450th anniversary of its brush with global history. You know the story. You heard it from me and from Luis Davila last year.

How, in 1564, the Spanish built two galleons and two tenders to cross the vast Pacific from Barra de Navidad to conquer the Philippine Islands, and to set up trading centers with China. That fleet was commanded by a financial bureaucrat, Miguel López de Legazpi. That part of the mission went without a hitch.

The more difficult part was getting back to Mexico. The known currents and trade winds all went one way -- west. That did not deter a friar, Andrés de Urdaneta, who was placed in charge of the return voyage. With a bit of logic and a lot more luck, he discovered an east-bound current -- and the rest is history. 

And what about Legazpi and Urdaneta? The great Spanish explorers. They are still honored here as heroes with streets named after them in Barra de Navidad. Plus a nifty monument on the jetty.

Last November, the town pulled out all the stops to celebrate that first voyage. A lot of state and local politicians showed up. Along with the Philippine ambassador to Mexico. For days, there was live music. Pageants. Almost everyone in town got dressed up as a pirate or a friar or a slave.

There was also a parade to welcome home the cross that once stood in the shipyard where the galleons were built. If you have not heard Luis Davila tell that story, you should search him out -- or ask him when he is here next Thursday. A grand parade it was.

I was there shooting photographs and noticed something unusual -- groups of red and yellow balloons festooned together. I saw a realtor acquaintance and asked her why those colors.  Red and yellow. She had to ask one of the organizers. They represented the beads of the rosary.

I thanked her and then said: ”Those are also the royal colors of Spain. Red and yellow.  I thought the parade might be honoring the Spanish heroes Legazpi and Urdaneta.” She appeared shocked, and responded: “They weren’t Spanish; they were Mexican.”

Story #2. I occasionally visit the Indian school out at Pinal Villa. As you probably know, the compound provides living space and food for some of the migrant workers who work in our local fields. But, for me, the central part of the compound is the school where the children, after spending the day in the fields, attend classes in the evening. Most of the migrant workers are Mixtec Indians from Guerrero and Oaxaca states.

Over the past six years, I have had three memorable conversations with boys at the school. I had asked each the same question (“How are your enjoying school?”), and each answered similarly. With a grin filled with pride, they said: “I know more than Mexican boys.”

Story #3. One of the first conversations I had with a Mexican neighbor several years ago involved the birth of his first child. His wife had gone to a clinic to give birth. When my neighbor’s mother returned with the news he had a new son, his first question was: “Is he brown or white?”

Now, what do those three stories have in common? A well-educated Mexican woman who claims explorers of the Spanish Empire were Mexican. Mixteco boys who see themselves as something other than Mexican. A Mexican man concerned about the skin tone of his son.

Where does all of that come from? If you know me well, you know how I am going to answer. It comes from the long history of this country where we choose to live.

Let me give you a little refresher from last year’s history course. But this time, keep in mind our question. Who is a Mexican? We will take a look at five periods of history: before the conquest, the colonial era, independence, the revolution, and now.

1.Pre-Conquest

Before the Spanish arrived in Mexico in the 16th century, the various pieces of Mexico had been ruled by a succession of Indian tribes. One conquering the other. When Cortes arrived, there were at least 150 separate tribes in what we call Mexico.

They broke into two groups: the urbanized cultures with grand architecture and hierarchical societies (the Aztecs, the Maya, the Purepecha around Lake Patzcuaro, the Tlaxcala) -- the places we visit on tours with Dan Patman. The second group were nomadic tribes -- mainly in the northern portion of the country.

When the Spanish arrived, who was a Mexican?

No one. At least, in the way we use that term. There were the Mexica -- one of the tribes of the Aztec Empire. We get the word “Mexico” from them.

But none of the other 149 or so tribes would have considered themselves Mexican. Remember the Mixtec Indians I mentioned earlier. They are listed as one tribe, but they spoke 50 different languages. There was no united nation-state of Indians. Had there been, Cortes would have been in deep trouble. And my lecture would have ended with that delightful hat.

2. Colonial Period

That all changed when Cortes invaded. The Spanish arrived as conquerors, not as settlers. They were here to be lords. And the Indians were to be their serfs. The Spanish ruled the land; the Indians tilled and mined it. And within a few years, most of what the Spanish came to conquer was theirs.

The conquered land was primarily where the civilized Indians had ruled.

If you had asked the Spanish or most of the surviving Indians: “Are you a Mexican?”, they would have been baffled. Mexico’s nationality was defined as its place in the great Spanish Empire. They were subjects of New Spain. Subjects of the Spanish crown. Mexico did not exist.

Because they did not come as settlers, Spanish men outnumbered Spanish women by over 10 to 1. What happened next was predictable. Babies born of Spanish fathers and Indian women started popping out all over. Including from the conqueror himself and his Indian mistress.

That presented a dual problem for the Spanish. The first was social. The Spanish were lords. The Indians were slaves – at least, until 1542 when the Catholic church convinced the Spanish crown to prohibit enslaving the Indians. Slavery was then replaced with what amounted to a feudal serf system. But how were the mixed children to be addressed socially? They were neither Indian nor Spanish.

The second problem was moral. The church could not stop the fraternization. So, it started marrying mixed status couples. And legitimizing the children. Mixed marriages were later outlawed, and, to no one’s surprise, mixed race babies continued being born. Now, the with the stigma of illegitimacy.

When Indian slavery was abolished (after the Indian population was reduced by 90% through disease), the crown authorized shipping African slaves to Mexico for 60 years -- from 1580 to 1640. That added a third component in the racial mix. Spanish and Indian blood was soon mixing with the black slaves.

Thus arose the caste system – casta, in Spanish.

The Spanish brought with them what sounds to our modern ears as an odd -- if not racist -- view on nationality. The year that Columbus sailed for the East Indies (1492) two other big events happened in Spain. 1. The Moors were expelled from their last bit of land in Spain -- ending 780 years of Moorish occupation. 2. The Spanish monarchs expelled their Jewish subjects from their kingdoms.

The Spanish, having been a conquered people themselves for almost 8 centuries, were obsessed with the notion of “purity of blood.” To have “purity of blood,” a Spaniard needed to prove he descended from 3 generations of unblemished Christian ancestry. And out of that obsession, the Spanish Inquisition was born -- to ensure that Spaniards did not carry Moorish or Jewish blood.

To maintain “purity of blood” in Mexico, the Spanish set up a caste system. It started rather simply. At the top were the Spanish -- all of them initially born in Spain. Indians ranked below. And African slaves below them. It was the mixing of the three classifications that was to cause confusion.

The mixing started in the first year of the conquest. A child born of a Spanish father and an Indian woman had a secific name. Mestizo. That name applied only to that combination when the caste system was initiated. Full-blood Spanish father; full-blood Indian mother. 50-50. Any other combination would have a different name.

The Spanish added a complication within their own families. Within a generation, a new classification was created when Spaniards born in Spain bore children in Mexico. Those children were called Criollos -- to distinguish them from Spaniards born in Spain. That mere fact of birthplace put those whites in a lower legal and social position than Spain-born Spaniards. And that classification was about to play a huge part in the story of Mexico.

And what would happen when a Mestizo man -- born of a Spanish father and an Indian woman -- married a woman with Indian and African blood? To the Spanish, that was easy. They simply created a new category.

Eventually, of course, the categories multiplied. They finally stopped somewhere around 16.

Mexican Castes

Father Mother Classification
Spanish Indian Mestizo
Spanish Mestizo Castizo
Spanish Castizo Espomolo
Spanish Black African Mulatto
Spanish Mulatto Moor
Spanish Moor Albino
Spanish Albino Throwback
Throwback Indian Wolf
Wolf Indian Zambiago
Zambiago Indian Cambujo
Cambujo Mulatto Alvarazado
Alvarazado Mulatto Borquino
Borquino Mulatto Coyote
Coyote Mulatto Chamizo
Chamizo Mestizo Coyote-Mestizo
Coyote-Mestizo Mestizo Ahi te Estas

It became impossible to track each birth with any precision. Government officials even commissioned paintings to assist them in classifying the mixed races. If you go online, you can see those paintings. Some are quite good art.

The castes mattered. Depending on where you were classified, your legal and social rights would be affected. The amount of taxes due. Who you could marry. Where you could live. Your eligibility for public office and employment. Entrance into the priesthood. Emigration to Spain’s other territories.

The classifications became so complicated, and the incentive to be classified in a higher category were so great, that a new occupation was created in New Spain -- forger of genealogical records.

What New Spain ended up with was a very stratified, hierarchical society on paper, and a society that acted differently in operation. Otherwise, nothing could have been done.

Remember last year when we talked about why Mexico seems to be a country with strict laws, but little enforcement? You can see the roots in the caste system. What existed on paper only approximates what exists in reality.

The caste system applied primarily to the central portion of Mexico. The parts first captured by the Spanish and where the “civilized” Indians lived.

But a parallel society was forming. There were a group of Spanish subjects (mainly Mestizos) who were tired of living in a society where they did not fit -- where they were neither Spanish nor Indian, and neither society would accept them. The fact that a large portion were also illegitimate simply added to their pariah status. Their status made them willing to risk their lives to get away from the restrictive rules of central Mexico.

So, they set off into Indian country. You can almost hear the Wagon Train theme song playing in the background. The north was populated with nomadic Indian tribes who had not yet been conquered, and did not take kindly to these strangers invading their land.

But the land was good cattle country, and better horse country. Enterprising souls set themselves up as ranch owners or as vaqueros (cowboys). Without the caste social strata, they could ride horses, own guns, be someone. All things they could not do in Mexico City.

As early as the 1700s, they created a distinct society in northern Mexico. One that would return to the stage in the Revolution.

But I am getting ahead of myself.  We are still in the Colonial Period.

The social structure in central New Spain in the late 18th century began to erode. Remember that group of Mexican-born whites? The Criollos. They began chafing under the rules that would not let them serve in high military or government positions.

That restriction mattered. Both in Spain and New Spain, the only way to get ahead in society was to attain a position with the crown or the church. What was important was the title, not the service itself. The position often became personal property. As inheritable as a dukedom. And the Criollos resented the fact that they were prohibited from sharing in the best pieces of the cake.

Because they felt like second class citizens in their own country, they did not feel Spanish. Instead, they called themselves “Americans.” The seeds of feeling Mexican had been planted. They were not yet Mexican, but they certainly no longer felt Spanish.

3. Independence

Not surprisingly, the aggrieved Criollos were the leaders of the independence movement from 1810 to 1821. When independence from Spain was won, they could now call themselves “Mexican.” And they did.

But who did they include in that word -- Mexican? It was primarily their own Criollo group. The white Mexicans (or Mexicans who had documents claiming they were white).

Between 1821 and 1910, two Criollo groups competed to rule Mexico. The conservatives and the liberals. One of their greatest disagreements was the question of Mexico’s identity.

The conservatives wanted Mexico to be Catholic and reflect Spanish values. The liberals wanted Mexico to be secular and looked back nostalgically and romantically on the Indian myth -- especially the Aztecs, even though they had no concern for the Indians living amongst them. When pushed, the liberals decided they wanted Mexico to reflect French Positivism.

For almost another 100 years, they would be the people who led Mexican society and used it for their benefit.

If you had asked a resident of Mexico who was a Mexican in those years, I am not certain what you would have heard. The country’s identity literally was up for grabs.

4. Revolution

And, in 1910, the grab occurred.

Remember the group of Mestizos who had headed north over the prior centuries? The people who developed what we now know as the cowboy culture?

In 1910, they revolted against President Porfirio Diaz who had stolen the presidential election from their favorite son of the north, Francisco Madero. The northern forces militarily defeated the southern government forces and put Madero in the presidential chair. The political revolution had occurred.

But it was also a social revolution for the Mexico City society. The Criollo monopoly on power was gone. The age of the Mestizo had arrived.

The big change was in the definition of who was a Mexican. No longer was it just the white Mexicans who had ruled Mexico for a century. The revolution declared the emergence of a new Mexican. In the years between Independence and the Revolution, the people of mixed races (especially Indian and Spanish) had become a majority of the population. Today the percentage of Mestizos in the population is 60%. Compare that with the 18% Mestizo population in 1790.

Post-revolution Mexico celebrated the fact that it was made up of a new race. La Raza. Mixed Indian and Spanish blood. With the conquering power of the Spanish and the romantic nostalgia of the Aztecs.

That definition was also very convenient for the leaders of the revolution. Most were far more interested in creating order than in creating a permanent, ideological revolution. So, they tamed the fervor of their more radical colleagues with the Mestizo myth -- a myth that had faint echoes of the Spanish “purity of blood.” Mexico had found a way to live with its Spanish and Indian past -- or so they thought.

But, right from the start, using race to define nationality had flaws. Between the first and second world wars, Mexican fascists used the Mestizo myth to argue that the Mexican race – the Mestizo race -- was racially superior to all other races.

5. Situation today -- and the future

The Mestizo myth has the advantage of containing most of the population. 60%. It also has the advantage of attempting to reconcile the conqueror with the conquered.

But it leaves out full-blooded Indians from the definition. 30% of the population. To be fair, a large portion of those Indians do not want to be Mexican. They avoided being assimilated by the Spanish and the Aztecs. They want to retain their own tribal nationality. In that sense, Mexico is like every other modern nation -- it contains distinct groups that do not want to be part of the larger nation. Think of France. Or Turkey. Or Russia. Or China.

And then there are other nationalities who have immigrated to Mexico -- Mennonite farmers in the north, Central American communities in the south, and a large Lebanese community that has produced government ministers -- and the richest man in the world. They are not part of La Raza. But they are certainly a significant part of Mexican society.

Several observers have pointed out a major flaw in the Mestizo myth. Starting with Ocatvio Paz in The Labyrinth of Solitude.  Paz claims the Mestizo myth is flawed because it is based on national self-loathing: hating the Spanish heritage for conquering its Indian side, and shame that the Indian side could not resist.

So what is the future of Mexican nationality?

I don’t know.  I am an historian, remember; and not a psychic.  But there are some themes currently working their way through the political fabric in Mexico.

Some political forces feel uneasy with a national identity based on the definition of blood. The hard left, for example, would prefer to define Mexicans based on a compliance with permanent revolutionary principles. One group who believes in a permanent revolution has made its way back into the news. The teachers and students involved in the protests over the deaths of the 43 radical students in Guerrero.

Liberals are more likely to favor a definition that centers solely upon citizenship as defined in the Constitution of 1917 -- natural-born Mexicans and naturalized Mexicans.

Others of a post-modern bent see hope in putting the Mestizo myth behind as Mexico pushes away from some of its isolationist past by becoming a true global economic power. And defining the Mexican nationality by its economic place in the world as the 12th largest economy with the same promise Mexico showed in opening global trade in the
16th century.

Let me sum up with those three stories I started with.

Legazpi and Urdaneta may have merely been operatives in the great Spanish Empire. But to Mexicans here in Barra de Navidad, they were the heroes who opened Mexico to worldwide trade. We can certainly celebrate them as Mexican in that sense.

To the three Mixteco boys at the school who were proud because they knew things better than Mexican boys, I would point out that they are Mexican -- at least, they are walking the education road that will make them part of Mexican society, to be judged by the content of their character, not the color of their skin.

And to the father who was concerned that the tone of his son’s skin could affect his future, I can understand that concern.

Take a look at who television and advertisers portray as leaders in Mexico. They look white enough to have been vetted by a 17th century caste chart.

But I would ask that father to take out a 20 peso note, and look at the face on the note. That is Benito Juarez. A full-blood Zapotec Indian who was President of Mexico during one of its most tempestuous times.  His features should be a reminder that substance can overcome form.

Race and features are not destiny. That is something we northerners with our European backgrounds need to remind ourselves. For all of its odd history with race, Mexico has always turned to utilitarian principles -- asking: does it work -- and often chooses the best path.

I personally wish Mexico -- and its people -- godspeed in its next 500 years of history.



A Partial Bibliography

Jorge Castañeda; Mañana Forever?: Mexico and the Mexicans 

T.R. Fehrenbach; Fire and Blood: A History of Mexico 

S.C. Gwynne; Empire of the Summer Moon: Quanah Parker and the Rise and Fall of the Comanches, the Most Powerful Indian Tribe in American History 

Richard Grabman; Gods, Gachupines, and Gringos 

Enrique Krauze; Mexico: Biography of Power -- A History of Modern Mexico (1810-1996) 

Charles C. Mann; 1491: New Revelations of the Americas before Columbus 

Charles C. Mann; 1493: Uncovering the New World Columbus Discovered 

Robert W. Merry; A Country of Vast Designs: James K. Polk, the Mexican War, and the Conquest of the American Continent 

Henry Bamford Parkes; A History of Mexico 

Octavio Paz; The Labyrinth of Solitude: The Other Mexico 

Alan Riding; Distant Neighbors: A Portrait of the Mexicans



Photographs courtesy of Jack Brock and Nancy Klein.

Thursday, February 05, 2015

pasta and phil


Spaghetti is for poor people.

So says my Melaque friend J.  (She will chide me as much for not using her name as for using it.  So, "J" it is.)


She may have her reasons for disdaining spaghetti.  Whatever they are, I think she is wrong.  To me, spaghetti (in fact, all pasta) is a gift from God.

While working on my lecture (I may as well call it what is: my performance), I decided to take a break and cook something at the house.  Last December, I bought five packets of Italian-crafted spaghetti.  They were a bit expensive ($56 (Mx) each; about $4 (US) for a pound package), but I really liked its rough texture (better for retaining sauce) and its taste.

Almost everything else I needed was at hand in the pantry: tomato paste, basil, oregano, basil, chili powder, worcestershire sauce, onions, garlic, tomatoes, and an Argentine Malbec for the sauce base.  All I needed was some minced meat, which I bought from the butcher down the road, and I was on my way to one of my culinary favorites.

I should avoid making spaghetti at home.  I like it far too much.  After two large bowls, I started feeling a bit like Mr Creosote from Monty Python's Meaning of Life.  (You didn't think I was going to link to it, did you?  We do have some standards here at Mexpatriate.)

And then a voice from above saved me from my gluttony.  Well, not a voice, but a sound.  The percussive explosions of cohetes -- those small sky rockets with the big voice announcing the approach and passing of one religious procession or other.



In this case, it was my neighborhood's patron saint -- San Felipe de Jesús (Saint Philip of Jesus).  His feast day is this week, and there will be all of the usual excuses to indulge in mild passions of the flesh that accompany Mexican fiestas -- religious or otherwise.

It turns out this particular saint had a penchant for pleasures of the flesh himself.  Born of Spanish parents in Mexico City in 1572, he led the type of spoiled childhood of a son of the conquest.  Because he was born in Mexico (and not in Spain), his vocational opportunities were limited.

He took one of the routes open to him by joining a religious order -- the Franciscans.  His heart was not in it.  A couple months later, he left the order and decided to be a merchant (a lowly job for his birth) in the Philippines.



The kid may as well have been Hamlet.  Within a year, he decided he wanted to be a Franciscan, again.  Because there was no bishop at the time in Manila to ordain him, he was on his way back to Mexico City on a ship to be re-admitted in his order.

Then, things turned bad.  He may as well have ended up in the hands of ISIS.  The ship was wrecked on the coast of Japan.  The Japanese feared the priests (along with all of the soldiers and cannon on board) were part of a European invasion.  (Like that tunnel between the Vatican and the White House during the Kennedy years.)

Philip's end was not a pretty one (along with the other priests on the ship and several Japanese friars and priests -- 17 in all).  Their ears were sliced off, they were paraded through Japanese streets, and in an act of religious parody that would have warmed the heart of Jihadi John, they were tied to a cross and pierced with spears until they died. 

That was 1597.  Within 38 years, Japan was closed to all foreigners.



In an odd sense, Philip's life sums up the colonial period of my little talk later today.  New Spain's caste system warped its society.  Simply because he was a Spaniard born in Mexico, and not in Spain, Philip's career opportunities were limited.  Of course, even though he lived to be only 25, he did end up as a saint -- and I guess that may be right up there in the hierarchy of jobs.

I doubt I will use that line later today.  If I have time before I head north, I will tell you how my performance went.