nun but the brave

Other than the cathedral (and its Aztec annex), our tour did not visit any other churches in Mexico City.


That may be an accomplishment in itself.  You cannot swing a Canadian tourist in Mexico City without hitting another church.  Their bell towers and domes are ubiquitous.


During a bit of our free time, I decided to visit a little church that was just down the street from our hotel.


The church is not that small.  It simply seems that way because its façade is quite narrow --tucked in between the city’s modern workaday buildings.  I managed to walk past it three times without seeing it.


Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Pilar (its official name, but popularly known as La Enseñanza from its heritage as a school for young women) is an architectural gem.  Both the façade and the interior are renowned as the pinnacle of Mexico’s Churrigueresque style.


If you are not familiar with the term, think of it as Hispanic Rococo – that hyperactive cousin of Baroque that never met a curlicue it did not like.  It is not my favorite, but the architect of this church knew his stuff.


The church's past represents a nice summary of Mexico’s checkered history with its church.  Completed in 1778, it served as a church until the government seized it as part of its Reform Movement in 1867 -- and turned it into a prison.  It then served as the home of several government agencies until it was refurbished and restored to worship in 1974.

 

I am not certain what was refurbished.  Certainly the altarpiece received some attention.  It is a true work of art.  Excessive art.  But art, nonetheless.  You could perform a good portion of The Sound of Music in front of it.


When I visited, there were a few worshipers in prayer.  That has been true of every church I have visited in Mexico.  Faith is not a Sundays-only affectation for many Mexicans.


But I saw something unusual in this church.  For a long period, priests and nuns were prohibited from wearing their clerical garb in public.  Those days are now gone.  But I have not seen very many habit-wearing nuns in Mexico.  Maybe because Mexico has the same nun shortage as the rest of the Roman church.

 

I was lucky that day.  Off the street came two nuns in updated habits.  They approached the altar and prayed briefly.  And then left.  For all I know, they are part of the order that now maintains the church.


There was something nice about seeing a church restored – and nuns going about the business to which they have dedicated their lives.


And the place is certainly far more pleasant than it would have been as a prison.