The hills may not be filled with the sound of music. But the river certainly is.
I arrived at my hotel in New Orleans this morning about 10 AM to discover that check-in time is 4 PM. After my all-nighter that was not particularly good news. Plus I discovered I had booked myself into the wrong hotel.
I thought I was going to be staying at the same hotel where I stayed on my last visit -- in the middle of the French Quarter. Instead, I am on the northern border. About eight blocks away.
But this is the home of gumbo -- southern hospitality and the French joy for life all stewed together. The desk clerk took pity on me and gave me the first available clean room. After only a fifteen minute wait.
I should have napped. Instead, I showered and headed out the door for the music festival.
And I discovered I was wrong about Jazzfest. It comes along later in the month. But the French Quarter Festival is happening right now. All along the Mississippi waterfront. On 22 separate stages. Some, obviously, larger than others.
I wandered west from Jackson Square to Harrah's casino ("I'm shocked, shocked to find that gambling is going on in here.") sampling the music. From progressive jazz to Dixieland to blues to Cajun folk tunes. It was all there.
I arrived at my hotel in New Orleans this morning about 10 AM to discover that check-in time is 4 PM. After my all-nighter that was not particularly good news. Plus I discovered I had booked myself into the wrong hotel.
I thought I was going to be staying at the same hotel where I stayed on my last visit -- in the middle of the French Quarter. Instead, I am on the northern border. About eight blocks away.
But this is the home of gumbo -- southern hospitality and the French joy for life all stewed together. The desk clerk took pity on me and gave me the first available clean room. After only a fifteen minute wait.
I should have napped. Instead, I showered and headed out the door for the music festival.
And I discovered I was wrong about Jazzfest. It comes along later in the month. But the French Quarter Festival is happening right now. All along the Mississippi waterfront. On 22 separate stages. Some, obviously, larger than others.
I wandered west from Jackson Square to Harrah's casino ("I'm shocked, shocked to find that gambling is going on in here.") sampling the music. From progressive jazz to Dixieland to blues to Cajun folk tunes. It was all there.
It is easy to compare the waterfront to Disneyland. After all, Disney stole the look and feel of the quarter for his New Orleans Square.
The big difference though, is the audience. Even though there were quite a few I'm-going-to-stand-here-and-dare-you-to-entertain-me types, they were balanced out by the people who kicked off their shoes and danced in the grass or who grabbed a parasol and strutted their stuff.
All of the musicians were very good. And whoever set up the stages knew exactly what they were doing. The sound systems at each stage gave the audience the full force of each performer. But the sound did not bleed over from one stage to the next.
As I walked from one venue to the next, the sound from one stage disappeared just as I could hear the sound from the next stage. Similar to the type of zone sound systems that Disneyland popularized.
The only thing I did not do was sample the food along the music route. I was so enthralled with the music, I ignored the Louisiana food booths. If you know me very well, the music must have been good for me to have passed up food.
But there is always tomorrow.
Filled with good music, I walked back to the hotel. I was tempted to ignore my moral qualms about using pedicabs, but this guy seemed far too relaxed to be bothered with a fare.
The big difference though, is the audience. Even though there were quite a few I'm-going-to-stand-here-and-dare-you-to-entertain-me types, they were balanced out by the people who kicked off their shoes and danced in the grass or who grabbed a parasol and strutted their stuff.
All of the musicians were very good. And whoever set up the stages knew exactly what they were doing. The sound systems at each stage gave the audience the full force of each performer. But the sound did not bleed over from one stage to the next.
As I walked from one venue to the next, the sound from one stage disappeared just as I could hear the sound from the next stage. Similar to the type of zone sound systems that Disneyland popularized.
The only thing I did not do was sample the food along the music route. I was so enthralled with the music, I ignored the Louisiana food booths. If you know me very well, the music must have been good for me to have passed up food.
But there is always tomorrow.
Filled with good music, I walked back to the hotel. I was tempted to ignore my moral qualms about using pedicabs, but this guy seemed far too relaxed to be bothered with a fare.
Disney obviously didn't steal it if it's still there for you to see! Though I've not been to "Narlins", the pics I've seen appear to prove Disney's version a fairly accurate depiction. Glad you're enjoying some big-life culture.
ReplyDelete"Steal" is a tough word. But it may be better than"derivative" -- that some people seem to consider a pejorative.
ReplyDeleteI would consider derivative a more accurate and complimentary in comparison to steal. It is derivative, but it is not stolen. You've seen both, I assume you agree Disney does a good job replicating what little they do? :)
ReplyDeleteI find it hard to believe that Disney would want to replicate Nawlins. It is raunchy, dirty, funky and one of my favorite places on earth. Disney is clean, organized and "citified" - something, hopefully that Nawlins never will be...............
ReplyDeleteAs always, you are correct. Disney's version of New Orleans looks as if a group of Swedes wanted to come up with something fun. They did all right with the form. Not so much with the substance.
ReplyDeleteEven though I was dead tired, I had a great time today. I can hardly wait for more music tomorrow. Frankly, this is much better than what even San Miguel can offer.
In form, but certainly not in substance.
ReplyDeleteThey are masters of facades--but as Steve suggested--substance such as the food at least, is not as a good as the real place I'd bet. It was surprisingly sub-par in the park, especially with cost factor. And that is not to be expected with Disney. They generally attempt top quality where possible. But it sounds like so do the "Nawlins" people with their commendable community music.
ReplyDeleteI will be in New Orleans later this month for Jazz Fest. It's all on the web. Sorry you got the dates wrong. But I have been to venues for French Quarter Fest. There's always something going on in and near New Orleans right now. Enjoy a Shrimp Poboy for me. And if you can, check out the Vineyard Church of New Orleans. Tell them Laurie sent you. I can recommend Stella's in the Quarter. Fairly new. Or the old standard, Commander's Palace in Uptown. Enjoy.
ReplyDeleteYou're making me homesick. I lived there for 18 booze-filled, lovely years. Oh, to be young again!
ReplyDeleteBut it's Jackson Square, Yankee boy, not Jackson Park.
While the music will now be in my head all day I'll be craving the eats. Good to read you're enjoying the start of your get-away. Thanks for taking us along.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the tips. Whether Jazzfest or this festival, I am just happy that circumstances worked out as they have.
ReplyDeleteYou are, of course, correct. That is what I get for writing under the influence of fun.
ReplyDeleteI am heading out the door for today's music with visions of remoulade and etouffee dancing in my mouth (to mix my sense metaphors).
ReplyDeleteI envy you right now, NO is one of the places I want to go back to for a week or so, maybe I can time it to coincide with the Crayfish Festival in Beau Bridge next time.....meanwhile, saunter into Felix's Oyster bar and have a dozen for me!
ReplyDeleteEnjoy your time there......lucky guy!
I am on my way to the river right now.
ReplyDeleteHope you have had a fantastic time in New Orleans. Your writing takes me back to muffalettas from Central Grocery, sitting in the sun at JazzFest listening to Dr. John, walks along the levee out by Audubon Park. Oh, and have a great time crossing the ocean.
ReplyDeleteToday was another great day. I just posted another installment.
ReplyDelete