Today was going to be merely a lunch day in San Miguel.
Babs gave me a tip on an inexpensive restaurant with a good menu. I think she was a bit concerned that I was spending too much in restaurants and giving the impression that San Miguel is an expensive place to live.
When I headed down the hill, I was a bit too early for lunch. So, I did as my blogger pal, Islagringo, always recommends. I whipped out my camera to see if I could find anything unusual.
And I did. I do not know how many times I have looked at the spires and domes that peek over the trimmed trees of the Allende Plaza. But I noticed something new in the photograph at the top of this post.
The dark gray block in the center is the bell tower of Nuestra Señora de la Salud. But I noticed something new -- to me --just to its right. A dome.
The dome is the cuploa of the church. But I have never noticed it before. I tried walking around the blocks surrounding the church. There is no better vantage point.
That is a shame. As you can see, in a close-up shot, it is beautiful. With its horse guards evocative lantern and intricate tiles.
But I guess it was built to glorify God. Not us.
That got me to thinking what else I might be missing by passing through too quickly. So, I took my time sauntering about. And this is what I found.
The doors of the San Francisco church are as old as the building. Massive. Well-crafted. But I never noticed that the inner doors each have a stained glass panel at the top.
That got me to thinking what else I might be missing by passing through too quickly. So, I took my time sauntering about. And this is what I found.
The doors of the San Francisco church are as old as the building. Massive. Well-crafted. But I never noticed that the inner doors each have a stained glass panel at the top.
Stained glass is not very common in Mexican churches. And these panels are not old. This one, for instance, was created in 1999. But it is really unique. A cross between medieval and Byzantine -- with a contemporary twist.
As I was wandering through the plaza in front of La Parroquia, San Miguel's odd landmark church, the bells started ringing.
"Ringing" is the wrong word. Pealing. As loud as any church bells I have ever heard.
I looked up to the bell loft to witness two men creating the noise. One was pulling a rope attached to the clapper of a large bell. The other was spinning a smaller bell.
As I was wandering through the plaza in front of La Parroquia, San Miguel's odd landmark church, the bells started ringing.
"Ringing" is the wrong word. Pealing. As loud as any church bells I have ever heard.
I looked up to the bell loft to witness two men creating the noise. One was pulling a rope attached to the clapper of a large bell. The other was spinning a smaller bell.
My workers' compensation background went into full action -- wondering if they were wearing ear protection. It is easy to understand why Quasimodo's favorite word was "Que?"
It appears even the pigeons were startled by the bells.
The bells are intended to call the faithful to mass. But it can attract those of a different faith as well.
I sat down to watch a small company climb the stairs from the street. Young people. Several more attractive than the others.
Beautiful women. Fashionable clothes. Young men with cameras.
It appears even the pigeons were startled by the bells.
The bells are intended to call the faithful to mass. But it can attract those of a different faith as well.
I sat down to watch a small company climb the stairs from the street. Young people. Several more attractive than the others.
Beautiful women. Fashionable clothes. Young men with cameras.
I have seen the mix before on the Melaque beach. It was a fashion shoot. From the clothes, it appeared the client must have had a heavy investment in denim -- and slightly dangerous shoes.
If you want to sell clothes, put them on an attractive young woman. If you want to sell sculptures, put them on the balcony of your gallery.
With all of my slow walk gazing, I almost forgot why I had come down the hill. But my stomach reminded me. It was lunch time.
Babs had recommended that I try Ole Ole. It was easy enough to find on Calle Loreto. Near the covered market.
Babs had recommended that I try Ole Ole. It was easy enough to find on Calle Loreto. Near the covered market.
As you might deduce from the name, the restaurant's theme is bull fighting. There are bull heads, matador posters, and a suit of lights to round out the theme.
I had a huge portion of chicken fajitas with some of the best salsa verde I have enountered in Mexico. (My brother makes the best that I have ever tasted.)
I had a huge portion of chicken fajitas with some of the best salsa verde I have enountered in Mexico. (My brother makes the best that I have ever tasted.)
And Babs was correct about the price. The meal with two Coke Zeroes set me back $115 (MX) -- about $8.70 (US).
It was a day of small observations.
They may not have been as hidden as the dome. But each one added a bit more to my enjoyment in San Miguel.
It was a day of small observations.
They may not have been as hidden as the dome. But each one added a bit more to my enjoyment in San Miguel.
34 comments:
One of my absolutely favorite things to do is what I call, "Naked Emperor" walks. I take a slow walk around places I have been many times and seek out those obvious missed opportunities.
I like the moniker. A god title for an enlightening experience.
You inadvertently illustrated something notable. The Mexican idea of human beauty. Only the young babe on the right, out of the three models, looks even faintly "Mexican," and that's due to the brown hair. The other two are blondes.
Whether in soap operas or print or TV advertising, you will rarely see brown-toned women in spite of about 90 percent (literally) of the nation being brown-toned. In soap operas, they are almost invariably restricted to roles of maids, the lower class or simply disagreeable people.
In Mexico, they lighter you are (blue or green eyes are particularly praised) they more attractive you are deemed. And you sure stand a better chance of being a model. Nobody makes any bones about it either. The same goes for men but to a somewhat lesser degree.
Your phenomenal photos always make me feel like I’m tagging along on your adventures. I love San Miguel but want to point out that open heeled shoes will not work. Women, actually me, have been known to slip right out of those backless shoes on the steep inclines of the San Miguel sidewalks.
Rainie from Merida
I started to weave that thought into my post. And then decided: "Naw. I will let the photograph generate the thought."
What was more interesting is that everyone off camera had noticeably browner skin.
You should have seen the stiletto heels -- the type you see in shoe stores for $800 (US) -- she put on for another shoot. I am surprised she could walk on flat ground let alone the cobblestones she was crossing.
You must be in tip-top shape from all the walking.
Thanks for the tour of San Miguel, I like the city already.
Ole Ole is owned by a former famous matador. Hence all the mementos. He and his family live in the back of the restaurant......
They do a lot of "catalog shoots" here for the American market. Possibly the lack of Mexican models explains that.........
I am climbing like a mountain goat. Or, like an old goat, at least.
I thought there had to be a family connection to the sport.
Oddities? On the corner of the plaza is probably the ONLY statue I have seen of Christopher Columbus in Mexico. Never seen any others, as it would seem he (for some strange reason) is not universally revered in the country... Most visitors walk past without a second glance....
Dan in NC
Enjoyed this post and the interesting comments too :)
I may look for more of the same in Morelia.
I posted a photograph of it when I was here last year. It is so subtle in its placement that I doubt most people know it is there.
If you were walking down Calle Loreto did you notice the building on the left if you are coming from El Jardin?
It is a couple of blocks from the plaza and is called Noah's Arc. If you look way up you will notice that there are carved animals all along the roof and there is a senefa of animals carved into the building just below the roof.
It is Cohen's hardware store and has probably been here as long as San Miguel has, although the building is now for sale. Perhaps the latest generation doesn't want to carry on the tradition.
On Reforma Avenue in Mexico City there is a monument to Christopher Columbus.
There's a statue of Cristóbal Colón on a glorieta of Paseo de La Reforma, in México, D.F.
Saludos, Don Cuevas
Yes Shannon, that is on Reloj, half way down the block almost across from Casa Milagros. There is a long history about the building and the family.......and the Star of David on the building.
His discovery of the West Indies soon led to enslavement, extermination, etc. of the native people. Unfortunately, the mistreatment of indigenous peoples spread throughout the Americas.
I did. In fact, I devoted an entire post t the building on last year's visit. http://steveinmexico.blogspot.mx/2011/07/san-miguel-stew.html
It easily falls into the category of easily-missed treasures -- even as large as it is.
In our rush for political correctness, we often forget just how brave he was to undertake his voyage. For that we can honor him. As an administrator, he was a disaster.
I suspect there are a few. But he certainly gets lost in the independence-revolution mythology of Mexico. The same goes for Cortez. Ironically, in Peru, Pissarro is honored.
It is true that the invasion by the Spanish tribe led to terrible atrocities. But the Spanish did not invent enslavement or extermination. Both were techniques used by the Indian empires against one another before the Spanish arrived.
That is not a moral excuse for their moral behavior which is reprehensible -- and was condemned by much of the Catholic church.
On the other hand, we cannot forget that Columbus's bravery also led to the creation of some of the greatest nations in the world on the American continent.
Great photos Steve. There's no better way of seeing a place that to go out toting a camera. You find yourself looking for the things you'd normally not give a second glance too. And you walk down streets that you'd otherwise never have considered stepping on. I miss my Friday Fotowalks in DF.
Also...your feasting. I'd long wanting to visit SM. Your restaurant bills were beginning to put me off! It's nice to see there are some bargains to be had :)
I think mountain goats have beards, but you are sure-footed. :)
I find the same to be true with writing. Keeping up this blog makes me far more observant when I am doing my walkabouts.
And thank you especially for the compliment about the photographs. Praise from the master is always appreciated.
That restaurant has no patrons. Looks like a very tough room - I think the bull would agree. Someone must have really hated that bull.
I was there a bit early for locals to eat lunch.
I like empty dining rooms. I can take photographs without violating the privacy of others. But we already had that discussion.
Are you still shooting with the Panasonic FZ by the way? While I found the Fuji HS more fun, the Panny always seemed far more reliable at turning out top quality images.
I am. And I learn something new about it every week. I just wish it was a better birder camera. But, for that, I need a DSLR and a honkin' long lens.
any chance of your bro's recipe, Steve? I have a great crop of tomatillos in my greenhouse. cheers Christina
Let's see if he responds.
I suspect there is no recipe. That is how we both cook.
I have been to Ole Ole, it's good.
Another ole in the ballot box.
The food as nothing out of the ordinary, but it was good -- and filling.
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