I have had my fill of sitting in theater seats. At least, for a bit.
On Tuesday, I decided it was time to see some of the tourist sights for which this area is rightfully famous.
When I was here last year, I visited the Sanctuary of Atotonilco about eight miles from San Miguel (doing good -- doing better). For various reasons, it is a very interesting place to visit. This year, I decided to spend almost the full day there.
But I will save the details of that visit for another post.
The entrance to the sanctuary faces west. When I arrived it was not yet noon, and the building was shrouded in shade with a bright sky behind. A photographer's nightmare.
So, I went inside and spent time looking at -- and photographing -- the murals that attract some visitors. I thought the sun would be on the front of the building by then.
I was wrong. It was still shady.
This being Mexico, I decided to exercise my new-found virtue of patience. The sun would be where I needed it in about an hour. The plaza was free of people, other than an elderly Indian couple -- married, I assume -- who sat in front of the sanctuary seeking alms.
I noticed them last year. They were there again. Nobly and quietly asking for help with their eyes.
Al of Rancho Santa Clara had recommended that I read Nien Chang's Life and Death in Shanghai. And this was a great time to get started. Sitting in the sun in the quiet plaza.
I was deep into the first chapter when I glanced up and saw one of the most embarrassing moments I have witnessed in Mexico.
Two men had just arrived by car. As they walked across the plaza, one of the men noticed the elderly couple. To him, they were not alms seekers. They were a photo opportunity.
The husband was seated on a stool and the wife was standing further away. The tourist physically directed her to move over by the man. The Photographer, doing his best Diane Arbus, stood there taking shot after shot as if Kate Moss was in his view finder.
On Tuesday, I decided it was time to see some of the tourist sights for which this area is rightfully famous.
When I was here last year, I visited the Sanctuary of Atotonilco about eight miles from San Miguel (doing good -- doing better). For various reasons, it is a very interesting place to visit. This year, I decided to spend almost the full day there.
But I will save the details of that visit for another post.
The entrance to the sanctuary faces west. When I arrived it was not yet noon, and the building was shrouded in shade with a bright sky behind. A photographer's nightmare.
So, I went inside and spent time looking at -- and photographing -- the murals that attract some visitors. I thought the sun would be on the front of the building by then.
I was wrong. It was still shady.
This being Mexico, I decided to exercise my new-found virtue of patience. The sun would be where I needed it in about an hour. The plaza was free of people, other than an elderly Indian couple -- married, I assume -- who sat in front of the sanctuary seeking alms.
I noticed them last year. They were there again. Nobly and quietly asking for help with their eyes.
Al of Rancho Santa Clara had recommended that I read Nien Chang's Life and Death in Shanghai. And this was a great time to get started. Sitting in the sun in the quiet plaza.
I was deep into the first chapter when I glanced up and saw one of the most embarrassing moments I have witnessed in Mexico.
Two men had just arrived by car. As they walked across the plaza, one of the men noticed the elderly couple. To him, they were not alms seekers. They were a photo opportunity.
The husband was seated on a stool and the wife was standing further away. The tourist physically directed her to move over by the man. The Photographer, doing his best Diane Arbus, stood there taking shot after shot as if Kate Moss was in his view finder.
I could just hear him back in Bayonne. Or Vancouver. Or Des Moines.
"Look at the photograph I took of these little people outside of some church in Mexico. Aren't they quaint? Just look at them."
The only thing missing was the barker from the side show.
I was stunned. I have always been very reluctant to take photographs of people head on. It always seems to be an invasion of privacy. But, more than anything, it was the tourist's boorish attitude that the couple was there to please his tourist appetite.
I wanted to shout: "Stop it!" Instead, I decided that I would memorialize the moment. Perhaps, as a moral reminder to myself. And others.
There. I feel better now.
"Look at the photograph I took of these little people outside of some church in Mexico. Aren't they quaint? Just look at them."
The only thing missing was the barker from the side show.
I was stunned. I have always been very reluctant to take photographs of people head on. It always seems to be an invasion of privacy. But, more than anything, it was the tourist's boorish attitude that the couple was there to please his tourist appetite.
I wanted to shout: "Stop it!" Instead, I decided that I would memorialize the moment. Perhaps, as a moral reminder to myself. And others.
There. I feel better now.
43 comments:
Hey Steve! Yesterday your blog gave me great joy - in fact I sang as I went for my walk - outloud - not caring who heard me - but knowing Someone was hearing me...Thanks. This blog brings me some grief - and I think our behavior as humans brings Someone else grief also. BUT, we can be changed.
Thanks, Nancy. My ost ended a bit prematurely. You have added the coda. (Or should I say, the North Coda?)
Kinda like memorializing a train wreck or a car accident. Some people take pictures at funerals and of people in the hospital. One mans art is another mans crusade? Just Felipe-ing a bit..
This is the second most holy site to the Mexicans. First is the altar of Our Lady of Guadalupe. Well over 100,000 pilgrims come here for retreats. It's hard to believe when you are in this small church with its original wood floors that this has such an impact, but it does. There are quarters for people to stay in for the retreats. And I'm told that the kitchens can serve up to 5000 people a day! It is not open to the general public. It doesn't seem possible when you visit during the week but on the weekends this tiny, tiny village is overwhelmed with buses, cars and people coming to see the "Sistine Chapel" of Mexico. With the UNESCO World Heritage site designation hopefully the rest of the frescoes can be restored. Prior to the designation all the funds came from individuals. Quite amazing.
The third most religious site is Chalma which is Southwest of Mexico City. Another amazing experience where the people wear crowns of flowers once they reach the site and even decorate their cars with flowers to show they have been there.
Oh really, Steve. You have become something of a moral wag. Are you getting enough prune juice.
Look at this situation straight on, as Ayn Rand might. There is this couple sitting there, doing nothing really with their sitting there. But along comes a tourist who sees an opportunity, and with his labor, he turns mere sitting into artistic value, and who knows, maybe even economic value as well. The couple obviously had neither interest nor motivation to use the natural resource they comprised. But the tourist did.
I mean, isn't this what free enterprise and privatization is all about? A more ambitious mind and soul seeing resources that with intelligence and labor can be turned to production of other values? Isn't this the essence of capitalism? It's a classic case of John Locke in action, one's labor turning what was merely possibility into real actuality?
The Ugly American tourist still exists sadly.
I do not know if the shooter was American or Canadian. His accent could have been either. But his nationality is probably irrelevant. He merely seemed to be from the State of Oblivious.
Now, you don't think you are going to suck me into the plurium interrogationum well, do you? Even I would not paint Mr. Camera with the Ayn Rand brush.
As for the prune juice, I plead inconsistent incontinence.
And I will post more on the sanctuary in a day or two. This burr simply got under my saddle.
It was like watching one of those films from my overseas training days -- "Don't do this or you may end up in an alley."
That's really not proper photographer's etiquette, at all. I will confess, I have taken photos of the poor before. But either discreetly from a distance so I don't bother anyone. Or I ask them, and leave something for their trouble if they agree. Or move along, photoless, if they don't. But I don't start asking them to pose and snap away as though they're a circus show. And when I take a photo, it's always because I see a great shot to be had, not because they're quaint.
To be honest for me it was a bit like reading and old post,
"Saturday, May 24, 2008
As some of you know, I
have been working on techniques to capture faces. I would like to present a few
for your pleasure --"
Thanks for adding the aesthetic point. For all of his trouble he is going to end up with the quintessential cliché photograph. Maybe there is justice, after all.
Certain thoughts do recur. I consider them variations on a theme. Now, if I could only compose like Bach.
Just swap the camera for a paintbrush, and vuala, highbrow rescue.
If you politely ask someone to pose, and you are given permission, of course with good intentions, why not take the picture? I don't know if this was the case stated here.
I found many people loved to be photographed, when asked. I personally don't, unless my lipstick is on and I'm having a good hair day.
I once thought that until I realized most Mexicans will say "yes" when they would really prefer not to be photographed. The only exception seems to be the children around Melaque. The moment they see a camera, they run over one another to pose. Especially, if I am trying to get a shot with no people in it.
How do you know they really did not want to be if they said yes??
I've thought of arming a busload (or three or four) of our "folkloric" looking people and turning them loose on the tourists.
From experience. I no longer ask.
Yikes! That, of course, would only feed into another stereotype.
And experience is personal.
Hmm, the old co-dependent switcheroo.
HuH, I don't get it, but maybe Steve does.
And you have taken many good shots, I certainly appreciate them, I may never have to go to England!
I live the scenario. Of course, the argument treads near the border of a recent hot political topic. And I am not going there -- right now.
FELIPE!!
Armed with cameras, natch. Turnabout is fair play.
Now, that would be moral equivalency in action.
Also note that I did not get in to
THAT hot topic..
"folkloric"?
Oh well, avoid inconsistency by silence. I still know where the truth lies and who lies the truth.
And I am truly sorry to have mentioned prune juice.
Off topic, I know, but have you been to any of the balnearios de las aguas termales north of San Miguel, and fairly near Atotonilco? We have been twice to Taboada, which is kind of staid ("boring") and once to La Gruta, which is more interesting and varied. The highlight of La Gruta, of course, is wading/swimming into the artificial cave and its domed chamber, there to await the pounding cascade of hot water from a hole in the ceiling.
You can have lunch there, too. Not bad.
Speaking of lunch, I await your San Miguel dining reports.
Saludos, Don Cuevas
The next we have lunch, I will be certain to order up carafe for you.
Jennifer recommended La Gruta when I was here last year. But I did not get out there. The weather has not been very conducive for outside activities.
I asked some señoras if I could take their photos. They never said either yes or know, but it was obvious that one was very uncomfortable. It was early morning, at the molino de masa, and she didn't have her makeup on yet.
Saludos, Don Cuevas
It is all in the subtext.
Steve - I didn't think you could take photos inside Atotonilco
You can take photographs -- without flash.
I'd agree with you there. Having said I do take photos of people from time to time, for every one I have snapped, there were hundreds I didn't.
I took two photographs today of men painting walls. In both cases, I asked, and they seemed pleased -- because they had pride in what they were doing. But it is a rare shot for me.
There's a polite way to take pictures of people in Mexico and it is to ask: "¿Me regala una foto? (Would you let me have your photo?). Most times they'll say yes and you might even get a better photo. Occasionally they might ask for a coin. Some might just say "no" or cover their faces, as in "go away!" Plan B might be to discreetly use a long telephoto. But you're right, just aiming the camera at someone is like turning them into inanimate objects.
al
I often wonder what people in Springfied would say if a busload of foreign tourists pulled up in front of a funeral home and started snapping photographs?
My defense these days is to simply avoid having people in my photographs.
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