Wednesday, December 26, 2007

where in Mexico should I start renting?

Answering the third question conjures up one of my favorite scenes from Monty Python and the Holy Grail. The knights approach the Bridge of Death and must answer three questions correctly. A wrong answer results in a plunge into the Gulf of Eternal Peril. Sir Lancelot correctly answers his name, his quest, and his favorite color (or “colour” in this instance). Sir Robin, seeing how easy the questions are, approaches and correctly answers his name and his quest. But the keeper of the bridge changes question three to “What is the capital of Assyria?” to Sir Robin’s eternal peril.



So it goes. There are a lot of correct answers; I just do not know which answer is correct for me. All together now: You will not know the answer until you go to Mexico and try each one for yourself.




At least, I am not starting from scratch. Fortunately, many pioneers have gone before me and have been good enough to leave their findings behind. (See my reading list posted below.)




The following list is going to change. I am certain of that. But here are my random thoughts.



  1. I love being near water. I have always wanted to have a house on the coast. I cannot afford one here in Oregon – and the weather is not conducive to beach living. In this category, I initially included Puerto Vallarta, Mazatlán, and Zihuatanejo. My Pacific Mexico Moon handbook convinced me to add Chacala and Barra de Navidad to the list. And an internet listing for a house that had already sold caused La Manzanilla to join the ever-growing crowd.



  2. I started with Puerto Vallarta because it had been one of my favorite vacation spots for years. That passion soon cooled, though, when I saw the prices for houses. Puerto Vallarta’s success as a resort had also turned it into a sleep beach town to a city with stretched infrastructure. I will visit, but I could not abide living there. I started looking north and struck off all the likely candidates because they were already suffering overload from Puerto Vallarta’s growth.



  3. I took a look at Chacala as the result of the great write up in Pacific Mexico and from reading Andee’s blog (My Life in Chacala). A little research convinced me that Chacala was every bit the physical paradise it was advertised to be, but it did not offer as many cultural opportunities as I was looking for. In particular, the archaeological sites in the area are limited. There are some great petroglyphs that I will go out of my way to see on a future trip, but Chacala did not make the cut.



  4. A visit to Zihuatanejo in October 2006 convinced me that it would be too hot for a year-round residence, but I loved the town. If I could be close enough for occasional visits, it would be a nice vacation spot.



  5. And Mazatlán. I have visited several times and it struck me as Ensenada on steroids. I obviously was not looking close enough because Nancy and Paul extol its virtues. I need to take an additional look.



  6. Because I was enthralled with La Manzanilla and Barra de Navidad, I took a quick trip in November-December of 2007. My travel journal is posted below. I could live either place even though there are negatives. The first is the summer heat. Even the natives stay inside as much as possible during that season. Everyone who can skips town. La Manzanilla has the additional problem of ejido land. I cannot bring myself to overcome that problem – for purchasing. Renting is not a problem. Barra de Navidad is still on the list to purchase, but I would like to avoid a fideicomiso if I can. If I am buying property, I would like to own title. Between renting in La Manzanilla and Barra de Navidad, I would prefer La Manzanilla for ambience and Barra de Navidad for infrastructure. They are both still in the running.



  7. For culture, weather, and archaeology, Pátzcuaro is going to be hard to beat. I am going to spend some time there in February or March with my brother getting a feel for what the town and area have to offer. I will look at a house for sale that interests me, as well as rental possibilities. Who knows? Maybe I can convince my boss to let me spend some time telecommuting from Mexico.



  8. Michael at La Vida Bougainvillea has convinced me to take a look at Querétaro and San Luis Potosí. Nancy and Paul visited there, but chose Mazatlán. I should, at least, take a look. I have not yet done any research on either city – other than to read the odd paragraph here and there. The highlands have only recently become a strong option for me.



  9. And, of course, I should not forget about Guanajuato. Doug and Cindi Bowers make a compelling case for it in their books. I had seriously considered visiting until my interest focused so intently on Pátzcuaro. Back on the list it goes.




The answer to this question is yet to be decided, but I think I am on the correct track. I know when I will go to Mexico. I know I will try to sell my house. Between now and April or so, I need to spend at least a week each in Pátzcuaro and Mazatlán – with followup visits to Huanajuato, San Luis Potosí, and Querétaro to see where I should start renting.

After all, this is just the beginning of the journey. I need to keep in mind, as so many of my fellow bloggers have already warned: there is always the possibility that the first date will result in residential marriage. At least, the Gulf of Eternal Peril will not be my “reward.” I doubt there is a wrong answer on the list – for rentals – and that was the question.

5 comments:

Nancy said...

A few comments:

- Have you thought about the size town you want to live in? For example, Queretaro is over a million people, and while it had a wonderful city center it just felt to big for us. When we were there there were absolutely no listings in Centro and not much residential there. The difference between Patzcuaro and Queretaro would be gigantic.

For me it was important to define things like "I need an area that is easy to walk so I can take the dogs on a mile or two walk every day." Then every place we interviewed had to have that to make the cut.

People are important...and figuring out how large an expat community would be good or bad for you would help. How friendly are people? How open to outsiders?

Culture is important too. If you like to see plays and opera as well as movies and museums...keep that in mind.

I imagine you are making your way through the blogrolls of various blogs you visit, and that can be better than any guidebook for giving you a real sense of a place.

By the way, one thing I love about Mazatlan is that in Centro you feel like you live in a small town - you run into people all the time, people greet each other with warmpth, but it IS a big city, so if you want a Mocha Frappucino you can get one. Or a Home depot or whatever. But I am really happy to stay here in Centro most of the time, but when I crave Thai food, I don't hesitate to head out.

Sheesh! More than you wanted, I'm sure.

Steve Cotton said...

Nancy --

Yours are exactly the type of comments I am loking for. I decided to start with some broad categories to help me pick a few places to visit. I will then narrow the categories. I am certain that I am mixing my deductive and inductive reasoning, but it works for me. An example: I am not certain if I want a country, small town, or big town feel. I know I do not want a resort feel, and I am happy to be in a community where there are almost no Americans. At some point, I will need to draft up a "What interests me" as you and Paul did. Right now, though, I am enjoying the luxury of existential travel. And I am convinced there are no wrong choices -- and no regrets. I am turning into a veritable Edith Piaf.

Glen Novinger said...

You are following a similar quest that I and my wife, Tracy, followed, visiting many areas of Mexico until we arrived in Patzcuaro in March of 2004 and knew it had that for which we were looking.

Patzcuaro is small, 50,000 people but it seems smaller. It is rich in colonial buildings that are well preserved, rich in Indian history and culture, and still living its traditions of Mexican history and traditions. Because of its location in the Colonial Circle and because of the good roads and air connections from Morelia, just 30 miles away, we can easily go anywhere in the central area of Mexico.

You might like to read about some of our experiences on Tracy's blog at: http://mypatzcuaro.blogspot.com/
There are also some links to interesting sites in our area.

Good luck in your quest. Maybe we will see you in Patzcuaro.

Glen Novinger

Steve Cotton said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Steve Cotton said...

Oops! I confused my web pages. I have seen Tracy's blog. I am adding a link to mine.