Wednesday, August 29, 2012

hidden treasures of san miguel


Today was going to be merely a lunch day in San Miguel.

Babs gave me a tip on an inexpensive restaurant with a good menu.  I think she was a bit concerned that I was spending too much in restaurants and giving the impression that San Miguel is an expensive place to live.

When I headed down the hill, I was a bit too early for lunch.  So, I did as my blogger pal, Islagringo, always recommends.  I whipped out my camera  to see if I could find anything unusual.

And I did.  I do not know how many times I have looked at the spires and domes that peek over the trimmed trees of the Allende Plaza.  But I noticed something new in the photograph at the top of this post.

The dark gray block in the center is the bell tower of Nuestra Señora de la Salud.  But I noticed something new -- to me --just to its right.  A dome.

The dome is the cuploa of the church.  But I have never noticed it before.  I tried walking around the blocks surrounding the church.  There is no better vantage point.

That is a shame.  As you can see, in a close-up shot, it is beautiful.  With its horse guards evocative lantern and intricate tiles.


But I guess it was built to glorify God.  Not us.

That got me to thinking what else I might be missing by passing through too quickly.  So, I took my time sauntering about.  And this is what I found.

The doors of the San Francisco church are as old as the building.  Massive.  Well-crafted.  But I never noticed that the inner doors each have a stained glass panel at the top.


Stained glass is not very common in Mexican churches.  And these panels are not old.  This one, for instance, was created in 1999.  But it is really unique.  A cross between medieval and Byzantine -- with a contemporary twist.

As I was wandering through the plaza in front of La Parroquia, San Miguel's odd landmark church, the bells started ringing. 

"Ringing" is the wrong word.  Pealing.  As loud as any church bells I have ever heard.

I looked up to the bell loft to witness two men creating the noise.  One was pulling a rope attached to the clapper of a large bell.  The other was spinning a smaller bell.


My workers' compensation background went into full action -- wondering if they were wearing ear protection.  It is easy to understand why Quasimodo's favorite word was "Que?"

It appears even the pigeons were startled by the bells.

The bells are intended to call the faithful to mass.  But it can attract those of a different faith as well.

I sat down to watch a small company climb the stairs from the street.  Young people.  Several more attractive than the others.

Beautiful women.  Fashionable clothes.  Young men with cameras.


I have seen the mix before on the Melaque beach.  It was a fashion shoot.  From the clothes, it appeared the client must have had a heavy investment in denim -- and slightly dangerous shoes.


If you want to sell clothes, put them on an attractive young woman.  If you want to sell sculptures, put them on the balcony of your gallery.


With all of my slow walk gazing, I almost forgot why I had come down the hill.  But my stomach reminded me.  It was lunch time.

Babs had recommended that I try Ole Ole.  It was easy enough to find on Calle Loreto.  Near the covered market.


As you might deduce from the name, the restaurant's theme is bull fighting.  There are bull heads, matador posters, and a suit of lights to round out the theme.

I had a huge portion of chicken fajitas with some of the best salsa verde I have enountered in Mexico.  (My brother makes the best that I have ever tasted.)


And Babs was correct about the price.  The meal with two Coke Zeroes set me back $115 (MX) -- about $8.70 (US).

It was a day of small observations. 

They may not have been as hidden as the dome.  But each one added a bit more to my enjoyment in San Miguel.